I'm a bit over the hydraulic clutch in the mini.

Seeing as mine is leaking, I was thinking of converting to cable or mechanical clutch linkage.

This is ideal, but the price
http://www.shengineering.co.uk/pcmclutchkit.aspx


Has anyone done anything similar?
Pics would sure help my design process.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

I know of someone who used to use one on a racecar, but had 'issues' with engine movement operating the clutch!

His solution was to solid mount the engine! Not such an option with a road car

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Sir Alec! we are not worthy!

I think it would be possible but I wouldn't do it that way, looks to complex/too many parts to fail.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Cable would be better if you could adapt something from another car to fit . Without the flexibility of the cable or hydraulic hose there aren't many other options for holding it all rigid unless you're going to anchor your pedal to the block somehow to absorb the engines movements .

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Early Metros had an cable operated clutch.
Propaply the easiest way to go?

But don't ask me, where to get it from... Maybe from the UK...?

@sports850:
Or weld the ngine to the frame...

cheers,
Jan

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No speakers, no bodykits, no six-inch spacers, no spak filler, no bullshit

Was that a verto clutch or conventional though ?

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verto,

i threw all the cable gear away when i robbed my metro of its engine, to be honest i liked the feel of the cable setup.... better then my verto and pre-verto hydraulic setup i have in the mini now

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backyard performance............. Aint it the best

Are all the bits needed for a mechanical conversion shown in this pic? I cant quite see how it would all hook up - either to an early or verto setup. . .I guess the rod on the right connects to the pedal and protrudes up through the bulkhead. . .the bronze bushed section of the gold anodised block is obviously a pivot point. . .but. . .

It needs a linkage between the pivot & the clutch arm?
Not sure if that's included in the 200GBP kit

The pivot pin appears to be made to pick up one of the clutch slave mounting holes. Thinking that engine movement would cause too many issues unless the motor was solid mounted, as Graham pointed out.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

The picture from my original post has disappeared, but the new photo has the full setup:


Oh, and the price is now 220GBP

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Too many cars, and too little time.

I'd say a cable would be the better option to deal with the engine movement.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

A clutch cable is a step backwards imo. Not to mention adapting one to suit a mini would be rediculous.

Does 220 Pounds really seem that bad when you think about it?

I just bought a new master cylinder, clutch slave and flex hose. I also busted the hard line so will need a new one of those:

Hose: $23
MC: $68
Slave: $38

Plus the new hard line I need made up, and the time to put it all in and bleed it.

Lets say that's $150, it's only another $150 plus postage for a mechanical thingy linked earlier +postage
And presumably you wouldn't need to replace that too often, or need to rebleed it


Seems okay to me price wise

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You're so square
Baby I don't care

What's so bad about the standard hydraulic system?

I haven't changed anything (including the fluid ) on mine in years, and it still works perfectly. Get the MC seen to, put a decent slave and hose on it and forget about it.

(Mine is a daily driver, that either aids reliability or proves the system is bulletproof, either way...)

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

The standard system is fine on a standard car, but the higher pressures and temperatures seen when racing shortens their reliable lifespan.

Anything above an orange dot pressure plate requires quite high hydraulic pressure.
This setup is probably consideraby lighter than the master/slave combination.
You would need to have the engine virtually solid mounted though for it to work. For this reason alone I've ruled it out for my road/track car.

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Too many cars, and too little time.