Then buy Des Hammil's book, powertuning 1275's he has "some" building tips in there, some of it is rubbish...
Why? gosh that part will cost you money!
Lillee wrote:
1) Use LMM grease under the head and on the threads of rod bolts and mains bolts before torquing them up
This is so that you can torque them up properly. If there is no grease on the threads or the heads will grab and you will get innacurate torque readings
2) Don't skimp, Redistrip you block, it's worth it
My block was good inside but the paint outside was really bad. Although I did a darn good job, at the end of the day it would have been easier to redistrip it for $100
3) Keep things as clean as possible. When it's spotless, clean it again. Keep things "unexposed" to dust and moisture.
Doesn't take much metal filings or gunk to ruin a motor first time you turn it over
4) Use a good engine lube when you rebuild, put some on all bearing surfaces, cam followers, cam lobes, etc.
This is to lubricate the bearing surfaces to aid bedding in and prevent dammage when turning the engine over
5) LMM between valve and tappets
same as above
6) LMM on all seals at assembly stage
same as above, doesn't take much to destroy a ruber seal when putting it on and turning the engine over dry
7) When dry assembling, be careful not to dammage the bearing surfaces, try using tape to tape up bearing cap locators etc. Use plenty of assembly lube
Unless you want to regrind the crank and buy new bearings before you've even used them
tired of typing now...
drmini in aust wrote:
1. If you don't know the history of the engine, many of which are 40+ years old now- and particularly if you are building it to have a rev, toss all the rod bolts away and buy new ones. Preferably ARPs for a bigbore, but you can use Unbrako socket head cap screws for smallbores.
Number 1 total engine killer (and I mean TOTAL) is rod bolts letting go2. Get the rods checked for straightness. You will be lucky if they are straight...
Aaron and I measured 16 factory 998 rods and all but 4 were bent, some up to 100 thou or more! The 4 that were straight were still bent by 3-6 thou 
639) Use good oil, change it often. Don't skimp on $20 of oil once you've built your $5000 dream machine. KMX (Kmart's own brand) is $13 for 6L. It's good stuff, better to use that and change every 1000miles than every 6000miles like the book says. Drmini changed every 1500 miles, that's a good interval
640) Change the filter just as often. $4 for FSA brand Z418 filters at Canley Vale Road Canley Vale. What more can I say?
641) Drill out the oil feed on the spin on oil filter mount. More oil, more lube, more engine life.
642) Buy a pirtek hose and connections to replace the metal oil feed to the filter. More oil, more lube, more engine life. If you use the metal ones, use the direct feed J bend pipe and not the bango type pipe as the J pipe flows abit better.
643) Cush should read more and not be so lazy
the cost of these would not be up around extortion would they?
