Have fitted a nissan pulsar dizzy d4r85 to my 1275.
I am getting a lot of run on. eg turn the key off but it doesnt want to shut down!
Whats my problem?

Was it doing this before? If so, then your engine needs de-coking
(the carbon build gets hot & ignites the fuel).

If it started straight after you swapped dizzys, then you must have connected the coil +ve to battery +ve. It should be connected to a +ve "ignition" supply, i.e. the wire to the original coil that was only live when the ignition was on.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

It happens on mine too, I just stall it in 1st. When you get used to it, you can do it quite easily

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I changed the route of my fuel line from behind extractors to over the carbie....no more dieseling (running-on).

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No more Minis!......For now.

Does everyone with a Pulsar dizzy get this run-on ??? No way... I doubt it.

There must be some way to fix it.
Darn I wish I remember, my old mans 1979 Falcon did it, until we... argh, cant remember!

Peter.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

I have one & it's never given a problem.

Have you blocked the vacuum advance line when you swapped dizzys?

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Too many cars, and too little time.

No fault of the Pulsar dizzy, when off, it's off....
I have 2 running Pulsars. One is 10.7:1, runs on all the time, even on 98 unleaded.
The other is 9.4:1, never runs on, even on 95 unleaded...

There is an `anti-run on' valve available in UK, but why bother. Just stall it, as Chong said.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

anti run on valves are available of HX-HZ Holdens too.

As a former HX owner, they would be Lemon scented ones

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"Show me the Mini!"

No i havnt blocked the vac advance line.
Vac advance is connected to the dizzy.

Engine has just been rebuilt so doesnt need de coking!

This wasn't happening before the Pulsar dizzy, right?

Sometimes you can get more run on if their is a vacuum leak.
Pull the tube off the manifold end & block with your thumb.
See if it makes a difference

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Too many cars, and too little time.

And no coil + is connected through ignition and not straight to battery.
Am i timing it correctly?
My procedure is this.
- i Disconnect vac advance from dizzy and block off with screwdriver
- Using a strobe I run the engine up to 4000+ and align the new timing mark with the first pointer eg 0.
(the new timing mark is 24mm from the original mark measured in a clockwise direction on the pulley)
Just tried sucking the vac line to the diaphram it pulls the plate around inside the dizzy but wont hold the vac pressure, seems like i might have a leak in the vac advance diaphram.
The running on occurs even with the vac line blocked off with the screwdriver!

has anyone asked what sort of fuel you are using? if you're using shitty fuel, retard the timing

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

You most probly have it idling way too high,,,back that down & also maybe drop the ign advance back a tad too

both will help

Matt

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.