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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 11:37 am 
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Location: Brisbane, QLD
what sorta stuff will i need to upgrade in the drive train to make sure it doesnt rip itself apart when i drive it hard with a 100+kw FI a-series in it?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 11:45 am 
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See if you can get your hands on a Quaife LSD.
Pretty rare to find one second hand but

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 11:54 am 
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http://www.robietherobot.com/storm/geo_ ... ission.htm

With the Open differential, the storm constantly would lose traction launching or in turns, and torque steer was at the verge of being dangerous. Most of my launches at the track were one-wheel burnouts, and just accelerating on the highway turned into a battle to stay somewhat straight as the oscillation of power from wheel to wheel would pull the steering wheel left and right. A group of us decided that we needed to get a group buy going and contactd Quaife in the UK and have a custom ATB LSD made for our transmissions. The group consisted of 32 individuals around the globe, including the UK, Netherlands, Singapore, and the US. These people all shared one thing in common, an Isuzu built tranny. The vehicles included the Geo Storm, Isuzu Impulse/Stylus, Lotus Elan M100, and the Chevy Cavalier. The Quaife LSD retailed for $1600US + shipping, but when you have a group buying a bunch of them all at once, it dramatically lowers the price! I ended up paying $750 + $33 shipping, not bad considering what the Quaife LSD does.

$1600US + shipping...OUCH...but it does sound like its worth it...fairly easy to install in a mini? anyone wanna go in for a group buy? :P

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 12:38 pm 
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how about

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11149

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 1:01 pm 
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Location: Armidale, NSW
Make sure that the gearbox can get that power to the diff would be my suggestion.

I guess that means uprated bearings and making sure that the gearbox is in great shape.

You might think about steel uni joints instead of pot joints (reportedly a bit stronger but you losse more power through them)

uprated clutch

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 1:26 pm 
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was considering a jack knight gearbox...they are pretty damn expensive though :(

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 2:22 pm 
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wow jack knite box now your spending money

i would saay just strengthen your diff rebuild box and yeah

dependss how you drive i think :wink:


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 2:38 pm 
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marcsvenson wrote:
wow jack knite box now your spending money

i would saay just strengthen your diff rebuild box and yeah

dependss how you drive i think :wink:


its a multi-year project so...i have time to save the money :)
i have heard i drive fairly well...but i guess they might have just been giving me crap :P

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 4:15 pm 
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Boosted mini had been running a well built standard MiniK gearbox on 120odd Kw (160HP) for a while..it did eventually blow though...like all 'boxes

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 12:42 pm 
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so what ratio LSD would you guys recommend? 3.9:1?

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 12:56 pm 
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Is this a road car? I would suggest not using an LSD on a road car... they aren't exactly easy to drive apparently. Not speaking from experience... but a heavy duty diff pin and new/rebuild gearbox would be high on my the list of priorities for my 100hp car. Straight cut gears aren't easy to drive as an everyday car either...

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 1:22 pm 
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68Delux wrote:
Is this a road car? I would suggest not using an LSD on a road car... they aren't exactly easy to drive apparently. Not speaking from experience... but a heavy duty diff pin and new/rebuild gearbox would be high on my the list of priorities for my 100hp car. Straight cut gears aren't easy to drive as an everyday car either...


its meant to be for both track and road...so...any advice is valued :)

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 1:48 pm 
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If the torque level of the diff isn't too high, then it will be OK for road use. Problem with LSD's is that if your going around a corner, power down and something happens ahead, you lift off..the car stops turning, ie you need to power through to keep turning..that's the theory anyway..

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 3:06 pm 
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Mini Mad wrote:
If the torque level of the diff isn't too high, then it will be OK for road use. Problem with LSD's is that if your going around a corner, power down and something happens ahead, you lift off..the car stops turning, ie you need to power through to keep turning..that's the theory anyway..


sounds like just a matter of learning how it handles...i usually power around corners anyway :P

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 3:55 pm 
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Quote:
its meant to be for both track and road...so...any advice is valued

Unfortunately changing a diff ratio to suit different applications isn't really feasible unless you have a support crew of masicists who thrive on pulling Mini engines in and out. (been there done that - and never again)
Decide on where your priorities lie - Road use, touring, the odd circuit sprint or hillclimb go for a 3.44:1 and don't worry about an lsd (try a cross-pin diff - they are stronger than a normal diff, cheaper than an lsd, and don't suffer from the lsd type problems descibed earlier).
If competition is your priority, then go for an lsd (quaiffe is highly recommended) with a higher ratio such as a 3.9:1. It will give you better acceleration and top speed will still be OK if the engine is built to handle 7500 to 8000 rpm.
I have a setup as described above with a close ratio straight cut box. It can be used on the road, but gets very wearing if driving any distance especially in traffic. But on the track it's a blast :lol:
It's a real shame that the diff is so hard to get at. :(

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