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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 6:03 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Sun Apr 04, 2004 7:36 pm
Posts: 2146
Location: sydney
I put 20W/50 in my twin HS2s at first and could barley move the pistons at all. So I added sewing machine oil and that freed it up a bit. How easily should they be able to move? (With the piston damper still screwed in)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2005 8:42 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 5:20 pm
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Location: sydney
a sort of related question on this topic,i took the twizzle stick thing out of my dash-pot and it appeared to have oil at the end of it,how much oil should be in there ,do i fill it to the top :shock: ,and whats the oil for, :idea:


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2005 8:59 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
OK last question first..
The oil is there to damp the upward movement of the piston when you open the throttle. This richens the mixture for a moment, sort of like an accelerator pump does in other carbs.
You should fill just to top of piston rod.... :wink:

How easy should it move? You want some restriction, but IMO 20W/50 is a bit too thick, particularly in Winter.
I've now put some 3-in-one oil into Barney's twin HS4s, we'll see how that goes.
ATF is also very popular.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2005 7:10 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 8:03 pm
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Location: Sandringham, vic
my carby guy reckons ATF or dexron III like the doc says


i have been using snapon air tool il which seems to be doing the job
perfectly for me.

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Cheers Steve.

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1973 south african mk3, 1275 +30 (1300), RE13 cam, hif44, mildy worked head with s sized valves, pulsar dizzy, 1.5:1 minispares forged rockers.


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