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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 12:45 am 
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998cc
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Location: Southwest WA
Ive got a feeling you may be right, but how do you mean drip bleed the duals?
How can I fix it if this has happened?

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 12:58 pm 
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998cc
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marcsvenson wrote:
All i can say is when you get it all set up bleed them the proper way as someone who bled my tandem master cylinder type bled like they do for a single and the valve got jammed in the cylinder tht allows fluid to the back brkes
apparently when there is a failure in the backs or fronts this valve shuts making sure you have at least either fronts working or backs and when you bleed wrong it thinks there has been a fault and jams shut then its cactus :cry:
drip bleed the duals

Guys, Ive got the Mini booked in this avo to see if they can sort this out. He's telling me the rears need adjustment, but the brakes were working fine before (just the pedal kept going spongy on me) so I cant see the rears need adjustment (they may do but they arent the problem here).
What do I say to these guys to make them check/fix the brake proportioning valve? He didnt want to know bout it but I think hes more keen to slug me for adjusting the rears.
Can anyone tell me exactly what "drip bleed the duals" means? Will that fix the proportioning valve if its now shut?
Any help is very appreciated, Id love to have brakes working properly for its first Mini cruise Sunday :)

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 1:12 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 3:10 pm
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Location: Brisbane, West Siiede
drip bleed is just the way you should bleed the duals
on some cars people undo the bleed nipple one at a time and get someone to push the pedal and then do the nipple up then let the pedal up and then undo the nipple and push the pedal down again BUT apparently this is not the way you should just undo the four nipples and let them bleed at the same time just keep topping up the brke master cylinder
do you get it
Can someone else help out explaining what i mean this is what i was told by a well known mini mechanic
im sure the guy bleeding will know what he is doing though
If the valve shuts BECAUSE of the first way of bleeding the backs will not work if they are working i would say your valve is ok


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 1:21 pm 
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998cc
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Thanks Marc I understand what you mean by drip bleeding now. I'll take it for a drive on some gravel and see if the rears are working coz I know they were before this M/C was put in.

But if the valve is shut, is there anything I can do? How is it reset/opened again?

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 1:28 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Brisbane, West Siiede
well with mine it was stuck and he said that sometimes you can get it unstuck by bashing it with a BFH but not this time you can just get a good condition second hand one not that much money i think they were almost a throw away device just a safety thing you know when the nipple is undone and some one steps on the brakes (as in first method of bleeding) it shits its self and thinks there is a problem with that brake so it shuts so at least you have some brakes


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 3:11 pm 
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998cc
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The valve cant be shut as I was able to lock both fronts and rears up on gravel. I dropped it off at the brake place, they'll adjust the rears and hopefully rebleed the system, hooooooopefully for better pedal/brakes :(

It was interesting that at slow speed (1st gear coz I only had a small amount of gravel to play with) the rears locked up, but not the fronts till Id almost stopped. I put it into reverse and tried again, the fronts locked up but not the rears.
Last time I tried the lockup thing (bout 3 weeks ago, before M/C changeover) I was going a bit faster in 2nd gear, all fours locked up pretty much same time.

Edit: Got it back from the brake guys and they adjusted the rears, pedal is better... seems its as good as its gonna get.. looks like I'll be adjusting the rears on a monthly basis ;)

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