Hi guys,
Thinking of getting an alignment I have fully adjustable front and back.. what are people running?
Thanks

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What tyres and what type of driving? Hard tyres with highway running is alot different to sticky tyres for weekend track days.

A good all round setting for 10" tyres is

Front
-1.5deg Camber
+3 deg Castor
1.6mm Toe Out

Rear
-0.5 Camber
1.6mm Toe In (0.8mm each side)

Running 10" Dunlop aquajets little bit lower than factory height.

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Ok. Then I would not run as much front Camber. -0.5 to -1deg would be good.

This is pretty much exactly how my car is set up, works good for A008s - no experience with any other tyre other than worn out, 20 year old Bridgestones

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*witty signature*

Sapphire Blue Deluxe spread across three parts cars, two sheds and a driveway...

Front
-2° Camber
+6° Caster
1.5° Toe Out

Rear
-1° Camber
2° Toe Out

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Front
-3° Camber
+0° Caster
2mm Toe Out

Rear
0° Camber
5° Toe Out (don't do this at home kids)

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I’m jumping in on this!

What wheels do you have with those castor settings Aaron and Simon?

I’m trying to fit a set of 10 x 6 minator or GB’s to a mk1 without any luck.

well Aaron doesn't have any caster, and I have heaps, so a bit of a difference - last event we were both on 12" yoko A539. My wheels are 12x5, I don't know what the offset is, but not huge, they sit more-or-less flush with the flares

Mine rub on the leading edge of the guards at about 1/2 lock, I stretched one side a bit to get some more clearance but it still touches. I'm going to have the wheels machined to remove some offset, they have a lot of meat that can be removed without any rigidity issues. No problem with clearance on standard 10" Cooper S steel wheels. I also run my hydro with 300psi, so the car sits tall which helps with clearance

No doubt your minators have massive offset - that extra 1" of width would be mostly outside the normal wheel centreline.

here are a couple of pictures that tell the story (apologies for the orientation - consider it neck exercise)

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Love the colour! I'd perhaps pump up the suspension..

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... and a dirty big rear swaybar

Mine's only just been finished and barely driven on the road yet, so I envisage this will change

Front
-2.5° Camber
+5° Caster
1/8" toe out

Rear
-0.5° Camber
zero (parallel) rear toe

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Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.

it is all the way up... 300psi... it's just that a lot of caster puts the wheel a long way forward when turning

and yes Stuwey, a dirty great big rear swaybar

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

It's an easy fix, take bolts out at front of subframe and fit the appropriate number of mudgaurd washers between frame and body panel.

now there's a good idea - I'll have a squiz - thanks!

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I'm struggling to work out the advantage to 0 degrees of caster? I get that from the 5 degrees toe out at the rear you might race or like it loose and the caster might help there, lower steering effort if you had mahoosive or sticky tyres? Jacking reasons related to castor? But are they that significant?

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss