Anyone near Cranbourne (within 10-20km) that might have a pre 76 cone compressor. I have new cones and the metric tool just need to get the old ones out.

Or any other great ideas that doesn't require the tool?

Any help would be great.

Thanks.

I have used a 1/2 inch UNF bolt, 200 mm (8 inches) long wth plenty of thread with a piece of drilled flat steel across the subframe bolts and has worked pretty good. Cones compress enough to extract the top wishbone reasonably easy. Even easier if you have hi-lows by screwing them in all the way before removing the top arm.

With the suspension loaded up, I used a UNF bolt and as many washers as necessary.
Tightened it up as tight as I could.
Jacked up the car and removed the trumpet and then undid the bolt.

_________________
Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

Subframe already out and have the metric tool so maybe thinking just using threaded UNF bolt (in place of metric rod) just not sure if it really needs to be high tensile (expensive for once off). Non tensile like $6 might give it a try.

Heard you can just cut trumpets coz have hilos going back in. Not sure what I'd cut them with though.

Hey thanks for advice

If out I would cut the trumpets, we used an Aldi reciprocating saw but can be done with an angle grinder. Not pretty but you are going to toss them anyway.

[edit] You may well find that the threads in the old cones are rusted out, as water gets down in there sometimes. Then the UNF puller no worky.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You should get away with a non hi tensile bolt. Once out, i have used a hacksaw and cut the trumpet where it fits into the cone. Once this is cut you can pry out the remains from the cone with a screw driver. Save the cones, someone's always after them.

Just undo the top arm & pull it out
Give it a tdy up & a paint after inspecting to see if its stuffed
Lots of them havnt seen any love for years & often they need bearings & pivot pin & even have to rplace them from excessive wear in the cup & thrusts area
Its always best to remove the arm to sort all that cause otherwise youre only doing half the job of that package.
Easy peasy

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

I did what Matt suggested, and just removed the top arm. My cones were pretty flat and there was no spring left in them!

_________________

I agree with Timmy & Matt. If they're original they would not have much left in them. Its how I've removed most of mine.

_________________
1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

Ah ok yes I would think they are stuffed (old resto). Wasn't sure if I'd damage the pin if the suspension wasn't out.

I'll give it a little tougher love and just take arm out as that was what I was endeavouring to do by taking the cones out in the first place.

Thanks everyone for insightful advice.

Once the arm is out, you will find the old now misshaped cone easier to remove if turned on its side...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So I am clearly a noob but the top arm is under pressure from the cone / trumpet and the pin can't be punched out from what I can tell (I hit it but doesn't move).

Am I approaching this the wrong way ??

Undid both nuts and was just going to knock out the pin that runs through the arm.

Take the little rubber bumper out from under the top arm. That gives a little more slack.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You could put a clamp from the end of the top arm to the subframe and compress the cone. Tighten up the UNF bolt, remove clamp and now there shouldn't be any load on the top arm.

_________________
Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

inginuity trumps again, I'll try these, again thanks all really appreciated.