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 Post subject: Hydrolastic/Wheel Help
PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 4:08 pm 
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Hi Guys,

So i'm starting to put my car back together post body work and have been working on the sub-frames. When i had the thought, how do you effectively fill the hydrolastic bags? wouldn't air get trapped in them? so how do i set it up so i can bleed them to fill effectively? does anyone know or have a how-to about that?

Also, the 165 wheels that used to be on the car (slightly fatter) rub on the sub-frame arms when they are attached, which is not ideal. How do you usually fix this problem, with a simple spacer or is it a bit more complicated? If i add a spacer, do i need to lengthen the wheel nut bolts as well? think it only needs maybe 5mil more space.

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 5:23 pm 
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ewatkins wrote:
Hi Guys,

So i'm starting to put my car back together post body work and have been working on the sub-frames. When i had the thought, how do you effectively fill the hydrolastic bags? wouldn't air get trapped in them? so how do i set it up so i can bleed them to fill effectively? does anyone know or have a how-to about that?


it's usually enough to pump the car up then shoot the fluid out in a hurry to evacuate the air, the proper pumps have a vacuum side that will suck the fluid and air out

ewatkins wrote:
Also, the 165 wheels that used to be on the car (slightly fatter) rub on the sub-frame arms when they are attached, which is not ideal. How do you usually fix this problem, with a simple spacer or is it a bit more complicated? If i add a spacer, do i need to lengthen the wheel nut bolts as well? think it only needs maybe 5mil more space.

Thanks!


the usual fix is fitting drums with a built-in spacer as per cooper s, 13" moke and later minis. And yes, with those drums you use longer studs.

http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... r-stepped/

these sort of spacers might be OK, but also might not be legal. I've heard that if the spacer is bolted to the drum, then it's legal, if it's being held captive by the wheel, then it's not...

http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... -mm-thick/

it might only need 5mm more when the car is stationary, but don't forget sidewall flex when going around a corner

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 7:59 pm 
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[quote="simon k"]

it's usually enough to pump the car up then shoot the fluid out in a hurry to evacuate the air, the proper pumps have a vacuum side that will suck the fluid and air out
I agree with "simon k". Don't worry about air in the system. It doesn't seem to show up as a problem if you do as he says.
I think the vacuum side of the factory pump is not for 'sucking' air/fluid out but for collapsing the bags to gain clearance when removing ball struts to dismantle suspensions.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 8:12 pm 
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When I put the front bags back in my mate's car recently, we tied the hoses up vertical and filled them with fluid(slowly!) Using a cartridge nozzle as a funnel. Then we pumped the system up high and blew it down fast as suggested. Then pumped it up again.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 9:12 pm 
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Thanks guys,

Helpful as usual :D appreciate it.


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