Hi, I hope I do not say the wrong thing this time, but I am a bit conflicted regarding the need for a brake booster. I appreciate that all it does is assist your right leg and in theory aren't mandatory. I was planning 7.9" KAD solid discs which are hideously expensive but look terrific. I would like things to be simple so if I can get by without a booster I would, similarly it would be nice to have some spare room under the bonnet.

Without driving one it is hard to know whether I can get by without one or not! I could retrofit one.
Anyone out there who does not have a booster and is comfortable with this? Just wondering what people's thoughts are.

Cheers

Jon

I don't have a booster and I have elcheapo pads that came in the kit. My brakes pull up well and the pedal effort is the same as most old cars and trucks I have driven. The only change I will make is to go to the greenstuff pads. (Things may change when I get to 60 years old)

Similarly, i don't have the booster, 7.5" Cooper S brakes and never had a problem with pedal effort.

My only problems with the brakes is when i attempted to put a Tilton adjuster in the line to the rear, which does not have enough available adjustment. It is made for a much heavier car with much more rear bias than you could possibly use in a Mini, so screwed up the balance badly. Have gone back to a standard limiting valve to the rear, and will make a Vizard adjustable limiting valve one day.

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

OK guys. Thanks. I am planning on using the minispares adjustable variety which is only a little more expensive than the standard valve. My previous mini 20 years ago used to lock the rear wheels so easily, especially in the wet or on gravel roads. It wasn't until I had to change the wheel cylinder that I found it was fitted with 3/4" cylinders. Changing to 5/8 was better but I still couldn't get anywhere near locking up the front before the rear would slide down the camber.. It will be nice to see how well they work if I can set them up properly.

I ran Greenstuff pads for years on S discs with no problems. For road use and track days. But you do need a fair pedal effort, I reckon I would have needed to use both feet to get front brake lockup in the dry.
After years of looking at a recond VH44J sitting on my shelf, I finally bit the bullet and fitted it. Now, the brakes feel like a modern car.
I had no room under the bonnet due to the `matic heater, so I put it inside under the dash.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi DrMini, yes the heater does take up most of that side! I'm planning on replacing that with something small inside the car. If you do need that much pedal effort maybe I do need a booster! Not much point in having brakes that good if you can't plant your foot hard enough to use it all.. I recall my previous mini seemed to have quite strong boost, was tricky driving it in car parks etc without jerking too much... It had a PBR booster but I was suspicious that it wasn't from a mini.

It's easy to fit the booster inside the car, most awkward bit was drilling 2 holes through the firewall in the right place to hold the booster.
Connection from the firewall bulkhead to booster is 2 std Mini front brake hoses.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yes, a good conversation piece for the passenger also I guess. I need to think about that one..

I've passed that milestone and still don't feel the need for a booster, even with race pads. I'd set your car up without the added complication of a booster and see how it feels - you can always add the booster later if you suddenly loose the strength in your legs.

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Curly
'64 Cooper 'S' (Group Nb spec)
'67 Mini Marcos GT www.mm7056.wordpress.com

Does it make a blow off noise every time you step on the brake?

I think maybe I should toss a coin?

Hmm...yes I could always add one later..... just need to leave enough room for it in case!

WHAT? I CAN'T HEAR IT for the induction and other noises.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If you have 4 adults in the car you will particularly notice extra pedal effort then.

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1968 Morris Mini Deluxe - members gallery
1970 Morris Cooper S - members gallery
Mini's I grew up with
Slot car couch

BRAKE BOOSTER IDENTIFICATION
The letter after VH44 is the identification for each variant.
The variations are mainly mounting points and output pressure.

VH44 = 820psi output pressure, 3/4" bore
VH44B = 950psi, 3/4" bore (The B was sold by BMC as an accessory for most 60s cars and also by other manufacturers)
VH44D = 780psi, 7/8" bore
VH44E = 1080psi, 5/8" bore
VH44F = 950psi, 3/4" bore
VH44G = 710psi, 7/8" bore
VH44J = 1270psi, 5/8" bore
VH44P = 820psi, 3/4" bore

There was also variations in cracking pressure and a few other things.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Yes I thought they had different boost pressures, and the mounting studs could be on either side... The one I have on the shelf is a VH44JA which I was told is for a mini.. I guess a booster isn't just a booster.

Jon