Does anyone know where to buy new door locks to suit a 1970 cooper s
thats the part that latches the door to the car and the door handle actuates

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1970 MK2 Cooper S

Pretty sure these uniquely Australian handles and lock tumblers are now NLA. UK Mk 1 handles are different.
However, John Smidt told me a while back that you can fit the lock tumbler for a std boot lock, with minor mods. They are still available from UK.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You used to be able to buy the passenger side lock mechanism new but don't know if they are still available. Drivers side and not available.ci believe the strike plates and nylon buffets are now available.
Cheers
Rod

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1967 New British Racing Green Mk1 Cooper S, 1967 Lake Green 1275 MG Midget, 1969 Jet Red / Crystal White Mk2 Cooper S, 1972 Gambier Turquoise Clubman GT (ex police), 1972 Camino Gold Clubman GT, 2009 JCW Challenge Edition, Megane RS265, Clio RS220.

could you get a s/h one re-keyed?

Sure, if the tumblers & barrel are OK, and your chosen locksmith has any nous. Some do, some don't.
My local locksmith broke my boot lock.. no apology, I finished up buying a new one from karcraft.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Rod
Did your parts arrive???

I didn't have a problem I thought when I picked up a set of lock barrels with an ignition switch. The locksmith managed to fit them up without reporting any issues anyway.

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... o%20search

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I had the same trouble with a cracked and worn lock in my 1969 auto. The earlier, sliding window locks are identical apart from how they are fixed and the handle hole; with the 850 the screws go through the lock into the panel. Winding windows are the opposite; the screws go through the panel and screw into threaded lock pins that hold the lock together, and they also have a slightly tapered square hole.

Minisport sell a modified 850 lock to suit winding windows for $150, $100 premium on the lock itself. I thought to myself that I can do this myself. I have a lathe and turned up some threaded replacement pins to suit, removed them by drilling out the rivet from the 850 lock and replaced them with my threaded pins, using the original washers and peening over the rivet part I had turned. It was straightforward but fiddly. Worked well. However I then discovered the later locks also have a tapered square hole which I needed to file which was again quite easy to do. Kind of fun and saved me $100.

Do you mean the latch unit that contains the tongue that engages the striker plate on the door opening?
If so, the 850 sliding window latches for the RH side can be fitted with 3/16th UNF recoils into to 3 holes that would take a through-bolt on the 850. It is then a direct replacement into the door. More details available if wanted.
If it's the LH side, some of Jonnoh's comments apply, although there is a variation that doesn't need a lathe.
Either way, the 850 latch is about $50 new, and can be modified.

The helicoil idea was something I thought of, but I wasn't keen on the lock being held on by what seemed to me to be a dodgy rivet, this normally doesn't matter because the screw holds the lock together as well as taking all the door locking load. However if the screw holding the lock enters from the opposite side it's the rivet end of the pin which takes the load and is no longer supported by the screws and it is now only the rivet which holds the lock together as well as taking the locking load. Judging how bent and cracked the lock was I thought it best to basically replicate what the original item was like.

I take Jonnoh's point about the head of the rivet being on the "wrong" side. I was trying to find a solution to this problem as I am running out of those threaded rivets like you made as I don't have access to a lathe any longer.

Did you want me to make some more for you?

Like this:

So what's the Tapered square hole all about
I haven't had mine apart to find out
What i have found is the Passenger side outer door handle square drive is loose in the actuating arm inside and there is like 1 1/2" of free play before the latch moves
I can get a NOS handle but the inside part might be worn as well
So i might be looking for some wind up wind door internals including window wind up mechanisms
Anyone got any complete but rusted doors to sell

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1970 MK2 Cooper S