Hi Everyone,

Just fitted a set of Halogen front headlights not long ago, they are quite good (considering I still run a generator). Problem is, some prankster at the assembly line fitted my car with lucas electrics....

You know those three-way splitter things in the wiring for the headlights - where the feed wire goes in and two wires go out, one for each headlight (and you have two of them for high and low beam)? Well they're giving me crap, at the moment only one headlight works, and you get interesting things happen when you wiggle them. What can I replace them with? I don't want to twist all the wire together and wrap it in tape,, like usual! You can get spade connector splitters but I'm not sure if they are good enough. Any thoughts?

I also managed to get my numberplate light working after only four years of owning the car. Pretty happy with that

Anto

Come around, and we can solder them together, and wrap it in heatshrink!


Much nicer.

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77 Leyland Mini. Gulf Racing Colours!

Yeah that's what Warren said, but I have melted through the power cable on my soldering iron C'mon think about it, you have to solder the power wires on your soldering iron, you don't go get ANOTHER soldering iron to do it....

Sounds like a plan though, that'll fix it!

don't do that, cos when you have to take it apart you'll have to cut the wires - yukko..... if you're talking about the red things, after 40 years they do get a bit crusty inside, take it off and clean it, clean the plug in bits too and it'll come good..

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I found some new red things (I assure you the current ones are no longer red!!), off another wiring loom. I was going to try swapping them but I cant get the old wires out, they are stubborn bastards....

Oh and on the topic of the numberplate light, I have decided that Lucas need to be congratulated for managing to make their electricals out of non conductive metal! What a great idea, it wont short that way

Seriously, some of my spare numberplate light bases were so bad that no matter how much sanding etc of the contacts I did, they still wouldn't conduct. Annoying. And that is an understatement.

Also not recommended I thought coz they crack with vibration and break, then you're left on the side of the road with no lights and presumably no car battery powered soldering iron!
If an electrical connector breaks you have more chance of finding some way of repairing it.

Anto mate what sort of lights did you replace the old ones with, i am going to upgrade mine soon and im looking for options, and as far as the lucas electrics goes, im replacing the lot of it in my van...
Cheers
Daniel

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If you want more inches, stroke it
Life's a garden.... Dig It!
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20746

I bought some neat solder/heatshrink joiners at Bias Boating warehouse.
p/no is S253 (3mm) or S254 (4-5mm). $7.90 for a pack of 4.

Apply heat, solder runs thru wires, then the heatshrink seals it at the ends. I'm using marine grade tinned cable too. No more Lucas automatic dimming headlights!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Everyone says that, but when's the last time anyone had to actualy take that wire out? Even if its absolutely essential to remove it - well then just resolder it and go for another 3 decades.

What he said..^^
These heatshrink connectors I'm using are designed for salt water, and boats. Heaps more vibration than yer Mini.. I've upsized the wiring a little too, over the 1970 originals. Yes the headlamp earths are bigger too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'v pulled out the complete front Loom....I have not found any cracking in any of the loom at this stage and I'v givinen a Good clean down and inspection.
I'm extending many wires with the belovered Heat Shring and upgrading others

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

It seems everyone is working on wiring!

I replaced the Lucas two fuse box in the Moke with an eight fuse one last weekend. I also installed relays in low and high beam circuits and upgraged the wires from the relays to the lights. I removed those connectors completely and soldered the wires together followed by heat-shrink.

BTW: I have a small soldering iron powered by lighter gas, so I CAN do roadside repairs.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

portasol rocks
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

These things are cool! But kinda pricey to use all the time. One big advantage they have is they waterproof the connection. I've used 'em on my 4x4 with good results (more vibration & corrosive condition than a Mini will ever see!!!).

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Metal to burn, sparks to fly...

I replaced mine with a couple of freebie halogen lights. One is a semi-sealed beam with a halogen H4 in it, and the other is a sealed beam halogen, a similar power to the H4 but sealed. Haven't seen another one like it! Both are Koito brand (I think supplied by Bosch, ala Autobarn etc).

I have another odd sort of question. Can a headlight half blow?? The problem I'm having is only one light turns on with low beam (high beam fine), but when I wiggle the wires, both lights turn on, but very dim. Could the light just be blown? Because I replaced the connector in question and I'm fairly sure power is getting to that light, but I wouldn't have thought it would light up dim if it was blown, so now I'm confused