The diff from my 1968 Deluxe is being checked whilst the engine/gearbox is out for the repainting of the vehicle. Upon opening up the diff just now and seeing what's what, two things stand out. Firstly only one half-shaft fibre thrust washer (BTA101) is present. That's easy to fix, but it does seem it wasn't included in the assembly 47 years ago. The second issue concerns the diff centre thrust block (BTA154) which seems to have some considerable end play, to the extent of 2 - 3 millimetres. Is this excessive, and worrying?
Should it be replaced by one of greater length. Can anyone measure a new one to determine the as-made length. I do have some used spares in assembled diffs, so what would the acceptable minimum length be? Many thanks in anticipation.
Cheers

The thrust blocks all have a bit of end play. It is exaggerated by wear in the spider gears' copper washers, and the hemisphere where they sit.
The other fibre washer has probably disintegrated. One problem with new washers is they are often too thick, and the diff locks up when assembled to the crown wheel. It's because the aftermarket washers are thicker....
I find an easy way out is linish a few thou off one or both of the side shafts where they touch the block. Gives more clearance.

BTW I hear Rovers don't have a thrust block, it got deleted. Dunno why.... perhaps they decided it really does nothing.

[edit] I would fit new spider gears and a competition shaft. Do NOT buy the cheapest ones you find, Quality costs money.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

[quote="drmini in aust"]The thrust blocks all have a bit of end play. It is exaggerated by wear in the spider gears' copper washers, and the hemisphere where they sit.
The other fibre washer has probably disintegrated. One problem with new washers is they are often too thick, and the diff locks up when assembled to the crown wheel. It's because the aftermarket washers are thicker....
I find an easy way out is linish a few thou off one or both of the side shafts where they touch the block. Gives more clearance.

BTW I hear Rovers don't have a thrust block, it got deleted. Dunno why.... perhaps they decided it really does nothing.

[edit] I would fit new spider gears and a competition shaft. Do NOT buy the cheapest ones you find, Quality costs money.[/quote]

As You Know Kev, There Are Some Mini part suppliers that do sell quality items at discounted prices, It is possible to buy a kit that contains High quality Diff Pin 2 Planet ( Spider ) Gears 2 Thrust washers & a locking pin For Around $150.00

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" A Hundred Years From Now It will not Matter what my Bank Acount Was,
The Sort Of House I Lived in, Or The Kind Of Car I drove ... But The World May Be A Better Place
Because I was Once Important In The Life Of A Child"

Does anyone have the dimensions of said thrust block BTA154?

Here you go, they are listed as being optional when using the DAM6027 diff cage with the static thrust washers
http://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/eshop/in ... age&id=156

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i've never seen a Rover diff without the thrust block here in Germany. and i have rebuild one or another

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Rover 214 atm ....