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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 11:12 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Yes.
I would deck it .060" or so first, as the 202 chambers are bigger. C/R will be lower if you don't.
[edit] Measure thickness first, originally it was ~2.750".

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Last edited by drmini in aust on Sat May 23, 2015 9:40 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 8:59 am 
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848cc
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Location: Perth, W.A.
Thanks doc


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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 5:01 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Gippsland, Victoria
ba_dm_tsh wrote:
You certainly can fit a 1275 head on a 998/1100. It has been done many times over.

I once built up a 120 thou over 998 and pocketed the block to fit a 12G940 head.

There are three key things to get right when fitting:
- Ensuring there is adequate clearance for the exhaust valves as they do protrude beyond the edge of the cylinders. Some have got away with a straight swap - A better way is to dummy it all up, measure clearances, and cut a relief pocket in the block. I aimed for 40 thou clearance when the valve was fully open and then a small profile around the valve and out to the head gasket. You need to pick all of your cam/valve train components first. And make sure your pocket doesn't intrude on the top ring (some pistons have the top ring very close to the top of the piston).
- And very closely interwoven is getting your compression ratio correct. A STD 1275 head was 21.4cc (ish) and a STD 998 head 24.5cc (ish) if memory serves me. So on a 998 you could, just by putting on a 1275 head, raise your compression ratio by as much as 1 full number which may not be a bad thing but it needs to be considered.
- And lastly, as Doc said above, you need to fit the head gasket that fits the head ie you need to use a 1275 head gasket.

If done correctly then you will see an increase in engine performance and usually for less than it would cost to get the same performance from a small bore head.


A bit late with this photo, but here's a 1275 Cooper S head sitting on a 948 Bugeye Sprite block in my Sprite (you can just see the yellow painted 950 casting on the engine block). Engine is out to 998cc and the block is pocketed for valve clearance.
Image

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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 6:04 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Perth, W.A.
Thanks for the pic Curly.

So much to learn!

Cheers

Eiles


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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 9:05 pm 
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848cc
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Location: France, Paris
shnitzee wrote:
Thanks doc.

In your opinion, would it be worthwhile putting the 202 head on my 998 block?

Cheers


Hi, in fact the 202 and 295 are the best for small bore motors, unfortunately in Europe we are not as experienced as you in Australia for small bore motors ... but we have beautiful engine tuning based on these cylinder heads. the chamber and valve size are good for this type of motor

The 12g240 (1275 head) is too much big for 998 and 1098, as the doc explained :wink:

to fit 1275 head on 998 is common in france and UK but it's not efficient for road motor


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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 11:44 pm 
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848cc
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cooper66 wrote:
shnitzee wrote:
Thanks doc.

In your opinion, would it be worthwhile putting the 202 head on my 998 block?

Cheers


Hi, in fact the 202 and 295 are the best for small bore motors, unfortunately in Europe we are not as experienced as you in Australia for small bore motors ... but we have beautiful engine tuning based on these cylinder heads. the chamber and valve size are good for this type of motor

The 12g240 (1275 head) is too much big for 998 and 1098, as the doc explained :wink:

to fit 1275 head on 998 is common in france and UK but it's not efficient for road motor


I would have to politely disagree with you.

I think it has been proven time and time again that the common A series engines (998, 1098, and 1275) are all capable of producing around 100 bhp per litre (at the crank) and the way to unlock most of this potential is in the cylinder head and the camshaft.

A Stock (cleaned up) 12G940 head on a 998/1098 when coupled with an appropriate cam will give a very drivable and enjoyable motor (once tuned) for much less than what it would cost the average enthusiast to get a professional to work their 202 head to the same spec. Now, if you're handy with a die grinder and have all of the burrs, stones, and pads that you need and can follow something like David Vizard's book and/or you have access to a flow bench that you know how to use then go and have a crack at it - there is a lot to be gained for a little more than your time.


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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2015 8:46 am 
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I didn't say a 1275 head was too big for a smallbore....!

A stock 940 head without S inlet valves flows about as well or better than a stock 295 does.
And to get a 202 (1098) or a 998 one to flow this well you would spend $$$ on porting and bigger valves.
It's a pretty easy & cheap bolt on job- the main caveat is you MUST notch the block to clear the exhaust valves if running anything bigger than a stock lift cam and rockers.
My 1220 had the block notched by .100". Perhaps more than it needed.

[edit] Yes I know you `can' get more torque out of a smallbore head, but it costs $$$ to get that and HP too.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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