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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Thanks Winabbey,

I was hoping one of the mods would get onto this. Got quite ridiculous.

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

Hi all, this is my first post on Ausmini , and I have entered an interesting subject that got a little out of hand
Well done moderators ...I would suspect many who have the GR manifold do not have daily drivers
The argument for and against air filters really boils down to usage and personal preference in my opinion.
If you drive limited kms and only drive in clean air (no dirt roads or excessive pollution) then there is no reason that not having a filter will be detrimental , as many race cars have no filter, other than wire mesh to stop stones, and my personal belief is that many foam filters are not much more than rock stoppers.
Many mini owners drive their cars in those relatively clean conditions, however if your car is almost a daily driver and likely to go anywhere , then a good filter is a must.
I have pulled many motors apart that show excessive ring and bore wear from dirt, and 5 minutes in dust could turn your new motor into junk ...some of these engines just had poor fitting filters, dirty or just plain poor filters make sure that outside base plate holes are filled and foam or paper elements actually fit
The problem you are worried about in this thread is no room, but minis never have enough filter room
I have not talked to GR on an idea thats outside the box, but I believe without physically seeing this
conversion that you can use the bonnet as the filter case, and fit 30mm + thick filter foam to the bonnet itself with a steel / alloy frame to locate perhaps a 300mm x 300mm x 35mm piece of foam with the centre where the carb sits actually removed so that no foam can be sucked into the carb. .. basically surround the carby with foam. The frame could be JB glued in place to the bonnet plenty of breathing through this much foam , but it would need improving on for real dust ... oil coating at least
I am sure it would be feasible for Graham to test this idea on the dyno , As like Graham I am prepared to say not all my ideas work ...
Since I started Link Automotive in 1975 , and Minisplus in 2004, I feel that I am qualified to submit good and bad ideas , and as always hope that this moves the discussion forward and helps, even if some one else can extrapolate my idea into something better
cheers Lindsay Siebler

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1959 Austin A40 Farina fun car
1965 Mk1 Cooper S restored
1970 Colt 1100F SS restored
2014 Mitsubishi Imiev fully electric daily driver
1948 Allard M coupe Olds 215 v8 project
1971 Twin cam Escort ex Uk championship winning rally car project

The reality is the more efficient a filter becomes the more it hinders performance. I think if you put tennis balls in the ram tubes they'd filter most things, including the air itself!

I think filters are a great idea. Production cars are fitted with filters as they have to warranty the engine under most driving conditions. You should apply the same logic. A filter element doesn't have to be very thick, so with 30mm clearance you should be able to squeeze something in there, as Lindsay said, between the bonnet and the induction using the bonnet to hold the filter assembly. You could even cut a hole in the bonnet and put mesh over it, or get some flutes pressed into the bonnet for extra airflow.

You could lower the filter over the Weber with an inverted dish shaped filter case. The XF Falcon did a similar thing.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aldon-Automo ... 566834b44d

Or these. No idea about filtration performance but the recommend them on cars that cost a lot more than a mini!

I remember years ago the Ducati Mike Hailwood replica bike had mesh filters on like these.
Someone back then did a flow test, and found they were more restrictive than an air filter!!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yep, the mesh destroys the ram effect at the outer edges.
No serious racer would use them.

Steering away from manifolds and carbs...

difference in bore -

What will the big differences between say a 1310-1330 - 1330-1360cc.

Would the difference be noticeable going for the 1360? Where does it make the difference? difference in HP?

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

1310 is +40 thou, 1330 is +60 thou, and 1360 is 73mm.

Unless you're going for 100% on all of your components and head work the difference between 1310 and 1360 would be approximately 5 hp, ie on a road motor.

Sorry I should've been more specific - I did know bore sizes, just needed to know the difference in HP.

On a road motor, is 5hp a noticeable increase? If, theoretically you built two IDENTICAL motors except one was 1330 and one was 1360, would you use one and say 'WOW this one has more power!' ?

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

No you will not notice the difference on the road between the 1330 and the 1360 back to back given everything else is the same.

If you were an expert driver on the track, you would notice a poofteenth difference in top speed at the fastest part of the track and a very small difference in lap time due to a fraction more torque in the larger engine.

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

I had a 1310 in my car for years. I then rebuilt it as a 1360, with the same RE13 cam, head and carby.
There was a little more torque, partly due to it being a fresh motor. IMO you wouldn't notice the difference between a rebore to 1330, and a 1360. And you have kept 1 more rebore up your sleeve.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks guys, are good 1330 (060) pistons available for 11:1 CR? Seems to be a bit of an inbetween size for manufacturers?

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

They say you need at least 10% more hp to be noticeable on the road.