Hi Guys,

Been thinking about the feasibility of fitting A+ drops on a remote box. (dont ask ) Main reason being to be able to use the larger bearings the A+ set utilises and also get rid of the whine that comes about from the gears especially when slowing down.

If an A+ transfer casing can be found and a 18mm nose shaft is used, the only problem I see is having to bore out the idler gear hole to accept the larger A+ size. I'm thinking of boring it right through and putting a cap at the end after getting the right diameter. If machining time and cost wasn't an issue, is this feasible? Or are there other things I haven't thought of?

Cheers

Rosh

Lot of trouble to go to... I wouldn't bother.
I've never ever had a problem with the smaller bearings, but I bin them every rebuild. They are too cheap not to.
Whine? If it's bad, something is wrong- either too much idler or primary gear endfloat, worn bush in the primary gear, worn idler gear shaft, or bearings..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

2 easy fixes for this....

1. don't slow down
2. drop a bit of cheddar down the flywheel housing breather hole

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Tasty?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Your right doc, was just looking at ways to use the more "improved" A+ stuff in an older setup.

Talking of removing idler gears, do you just use a die grinder to break through the race or do you have a proper tool to remove them off??

Cheers

Rosh

I used to weld a bolt in them and pull it out.
Now I've made a puller for it.

Idler bearing one:
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=84824

Outrigger bearing one:
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=84890

Enjoy...
Sorry, I don't make these for sale, it takes too long. But there's enough info given to make your own.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

My original BL tools for the job wore out years ago Roshane, I just drill through teh outer casing these days. Quick and easy.

Haha sometimes we take slowing down for granted. I remember the master cylinder of my old man's mini (single circuit with zero handbrakes) failing 30 feet from a T junction on my last day of Kindergarten. Good thing he had the presence of mind to steer the beast towards a pile of sand. Mom got a bruised head while dad and I pushed the car home. Good times

Thanks Doc and Keith. I'll give those tools a go.

Purely as a theoretical exercise though, aren't the A+ helix gear pressure angles supposed to generate less noise/friction compared to the older A series one's?

Cheers

A+ gears in the gearset have more helix than B form A series ones do. They might be a little quieter but their teeth will be thinner, and they will give greater side thrust.
I doubt they would be any stronger.
The main claim to fame for A+ drop gears was their 1/8" bigger shaft & bearings.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks doc, yeah makes sense, greater the angle higher the side loading would be.

Roshane, your in Melbourne? Bring it around to my place, I have the factory Churchill tools to remove both the idler gear bearing and the support bearing. I am also able to help you with machining of the case/transfer housing, they need to line bored together, as they were done originally.

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

Hey David,

Yeah I'm in Melbourne and my friend Chris who has the blue EFI Clubman LS from the club has spoken highly of you a few times. Swapping drop gears was more to inquire than anything at the moment. But it's something I've been thinking for a long time. I'll send you a PM to have a chat about it.

Cheers