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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2014 6:20 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2013 10:53 am
Posts: 552
Location: Wollongong NSW
Fixed my driver's side door! Although the lock assembly is wearing out, I loosened the hinges and wiggled the door ever so slightly forward. Just enough to allow the door to freely open.

:D

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 12:31 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sat Sep 21, 2013 9:47 pm
Posts: 324
Location: Melbourne West
completed the mini rotor, now it is safe and easy to rotate with a 9:1 reduction.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 3:52 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 12:43 pm
Posts: 850
Location: Narellan NSW
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Fitted my new tail lights while I have the fuel tanks out


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Also changed the two rear brake hoses , must admit , they were a lot easier to install
when the sub frame was out of the car. Still have to change the front ones , but they will have to wait until the hydro is back in and the car is pumped back up


Mark


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 9:28 pm 
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1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Thu Jan 07, 2010 11:31 am
Posts: 1564
Location: st marys
got 2 hubcaps and 2 window winder handles for $10 at the Rodstock Car Show & Swap Meet Vintage Trucks & Cars,
Hubertus Country Club Luddenham

And a nos wiper wash bottle kit at my old schools fete for $2 gonna see if i can fit the pump motor into one of the mini bottles i have one day it looks like the same pump


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 9:32 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39754
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Charged the battery overnight. The Pioneer CD stereo slowly drains it, due to the 12V keeping the memory alive.
It's a club car now so sits unused for weeks.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 4:08 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2014 7:23 pm
Posts: 19
Pulled out the cooked 998. Somewhere along the lines an owner decided to put on a set of wildcat headers and hotdog mid pipe-no biggie- they then proceeded to weld the entire system so its one piece, not just a slight tack on the joins but a full length bead around each join


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 6:17 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sat Sep 21, 2013 9:47 pm
Posts: 324
Location: Melbourne West
cut out the passenger floor some more and trial fit the new panel, more to go.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 6:41 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2014 11:17 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Karratha, WA. Newcastle UK
Had a good look at the engine numbers and chassis numbers aswell as trying to spot any components with a date on!

Pretty happy with the results.

The other week i rebuilt all of the front suspension, ball joints etc with new bushes, give them a paint. pumped up the bags and sorted a few other things too!

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 10:41 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39754
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Finished putting my spare Mk2 S box (with 3.44 diff) back together. I had it under the 1412 stroker for 5000km, but it used to jump out of 2nd gear on overrun sometimes.
Now has a matched GOOD 2nd gear & 1-2 synchro hub, and new HD synchro hub springs in there. And a GOOD 1-2 shift fork (from 3 synchro box).
It'll be fitted to my 1360 around Xmas time. Tata 3.647 diff... :mrgreen:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 6:40 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Sun Jan 08, 2006 12:04 am
Posts: 648
Location: Ballarat, Victoria
drmini in aust wrote:
Finished putting my spare Mk2 S box (with 3.44 diff) back together.
It'll be fitted to my 1360 around Xmas time. Tata 3.647 diff... :mrgreen:

What is the change from the 3.647 diff do the 3.44 going to do? as far as accelerating away from the line, top speed, cruising revs, etc?
I'm interested, and a few people have asked on a facebook group about 3.1 and 2.9's as well and it seems like you'd be the person to answer the question!

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Build Thread: http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=80657


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 7:52 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Thorlek wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
Finished putting my spare Mk2 S box (with 3.44 diff) back together.
It'll be fitted to my 1360 around Xmas time. Tata 3.647 diff... :mrgreen:

What is the change from the 3.647 diff do the 3.44 going to do? as far as accelerating away from the line, top speed, cruising revs, etc?
I'm interested, and a few people have asked on a facebook group about 3.1 and 2.9's as well and it seems like you'd be the person to answer the question!


Well, I put the 3.647 diff in it years ago, just to give it a bit more 4th gear go on the straight at Wakefield Pk on track days.
However I don't track it now, and as I said earlier in this thread I have traction problems in the dry in 1st gear. When the motor hits 5000rpm with the 282 cam the A008s break loose and it wheelspins from there to redline (currently 7500).
I'm hoping the slightly taller gearing will fix this.

On the subject of fitting taller diffs, I'd be inclined to run stock Mini K etc gears then, not S ones. This avoids making the lower gears too tall, whilst giving more relaxed cruising in 4th.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 7:58 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2012 6:59 pm
Posts: 1125
Location: Barossa Valley, SA
Thorlek wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
Finished putting my spare Mk2 S box (with 3.44 diff) back together.
It'll be fitted to my 1360 around Xmas time. Tata 3.647 diff... :mrgreen:

What is the change from the 3.647 diff do the 3.44 going to do? as far as accelerating away from the line, top speed, cruising revs, etc?
I'm interested, and a few people have asked on a facebook group about 3.1 and 2.9's as well and it seems like you'd be the person to answer the question!


A 3.1 will drop your cruising rev's down substantially at the penalty of off the mark sprightliness. I have a 3.1 in my 1275 67 deluxe and it sits on about 36-3700rpm @ 110kph, downside is that at 50kph I am basically at idle or have to drop to 3rd :( a 2.9 would suck around town.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 10:10 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2013 8:11 pm
Posts: 88
Location: Toowoomba
Just replaced the top engine steady bushes, what seemed like a straightforward job was actually a PITA! All done now and no movement. Only a couple of jobs left until ready for RWC.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 12:43 pm
Posts: 850
Location: Narellan NSW
Well it took all day
I used the Por 15 tank sealer on both tanks
as per instructions,
from what I can see inside the tanks they are well and truly coated
now let it set , and hope this does the job

Mark


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 4:49 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Thu Jan 07, 2010 11:31 am
Posts: 1564
Location: st marys
Went to super crap and got them stanley stubby Imperial spanners

Hope its the same stanley that made good screwdrivers before all the crap tools hit the market in shops


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