Hi folks,
Just thought I'd share my latest improvement to my car, which is a NoDiz kit - which I believe is like MegaJolt. Basically a black box (any box which is black is awesome right?), a Ford Focus coil, a crank angle sensor (with 36-1 crank wheel) and for my turbo application, a Cosworth MAP sensor.

All rather straightforward once the crank wheel and sensor are sorted out; black box mounted on firewall, a six (or so) wire loom running to the coil & MAP sensor, and a second 3 wire loom running to the crank sensor.

It's not that cheap, but allows for ignition mapping on a laptop, so less visits to the dyno I guess, plus it has a digital dashboard for smartphone, so no need for tacho (and it has a rev limiter).

Not quite running on it yet, so for now I effectively have two ignition systems fitted.

Once I've got it bedded down I'll blank off the dizzy hole and throw the coil away. I read somewhere that a welch plug will do that job..

An interesting feature is that it's "wasted spark" system. That is, it only knows two things - fire on 1&4, or fire on 2&3. Compressed fuel and air in cylinder 1, and nothing in cylinder 4, but both get a spark!

The wonders of modern technology....

More info here www.nodiz.co.uk.

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'68 Deluxe w/Metro engine

I also have wasted spark ignition (MegaSquirt 3). I think you'll find that you will pickup more torque at lower revs. I did.

Jim

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'68 Morris Mini 1310 A+ (Now Sold!)

Sounds like it works the same as megajolt

And yes you can just use a welsh plug to block the hole in the block, can't remember what size but it's easy enough to measure. Or there was someone here on ausmini that made some cnc'd blanking caps.

Should be worth the effort you put in getting it installed and setup.

Thanks for the replies guys.
I still can't believe how far things have come for the humble A series - imagine telling someone in the 60's that it would be possible to have no distributor, a phone mounted on the dash as a tacho, a rev cutout and computer based timing adjustments! And then telling them that a cheap GPS could tell them speed with much greater accuracy than the speedo?!

And that's without even going into replacement heads, fuel injection, and all the other goodies!

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'68 Deluxe w/Metro engine

that's an understatement!!

cheaper to buy a megasquirt and leave the injection part unplugged!

but well done

and I've measured the distributor plug hole a few times, but just can't remember the size!

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Sweet Jebus!

Can I ask, how did you mount the 36-1 crank wheel?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

me or him?

after getting mine cut and machining a profile in it, I drilled a couple of 5/16 (countersunk) holes in it and put screws through it into the existing tapped holes in an 1100S type harmonic balancer

its in my how-to viewtopic.php?f=25&t=56242

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Either or. I had a feeling they were smaller than the outside diameter of the wheel. But that makes good sense.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

You might say I cheated - got a new assembly from MED, and their sensor on mounting.
It was the "no work" option!
Does all fit up nicely though.
I did look at the other systems available, but ended up with the NoDiz.
Just can't remember why right now!

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'68 Deluxe w/Metro engine

When i fitted mine, I turned down the outer of the balancer and then a 3 points i drilled and grub screwed the toothed wheel and the pulley together, the only pic i have though is with the wheel on but not using the grub screws yet

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

i just use a dividing head & machine the teeth out of the pulley

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Well I got it running on the NoDiz the other day, but have no idea whether the base map is any good at all for an A-series. Does anyone have any suggestions? I did find this data in the Haynes manual for a A+ 1275s, but it's so vague as to be useless:
700RPM 0-4deg
1600RPM 8-12deg
2500RPM 16-20deg
2800RPM 23-27deg
5200RPM 24-28deg

For what it's worth, NoDiz provides for advance settings at these RPM points:
800, 1200, 1600, 2000, 2500, 3000, 3500, 4000, 4500, 5000, 5500, 6000, 6500, 7000, 7500, 8000.

I took it around the block on the base settings, and a familiar flat spot was noticeably absent - awesome start!

Thanks
Matt

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'68 Deluxe w/Metro engine

it was the same when I first installed my megajolt - with the base map the engine just worked so much better, I started making changes to the map and it took me a few weeks to realise that I wasn't saving the changes I was making

if you download the megajolt software there are a heap of megajolt ignition maps that suit A series you'll be able to copy from, or better yet, find a friendly dyno operator who'll let you drive the software while he tells you what changes to make

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Have a look at the CSI ignition advance curves.... more advance earlier

Thanks guys. Will check those out.
Though nothing quite like a trip to the dyno, near enough will make it driveable (and better than with a dizzy).

Cheers

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'68 Deluxe w/Metro engine