I'm going to give Pierce a call today and see if they have any recommendations. I called yesterday but Cali is two hours behind Central so I got 'em while they were at lunch.

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Called Pierce, they're not aware of anyone who has injected it.

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Another year has gone by and I have been too busy with work and life to make any progress.

During the year I did get myself another mini though and that has enabled me to make better measurements of what will and won't fit under the bonnet of a round nose mini.

I have decided that I can (1) use short series injectors and put them in the head or above the runners or below the runners. (2) use standard injectors and put them in the head.

Putting standard Denso injectors in the head is possible without any welding, just machining of a flat surface around the hole for the washer to seal against. I like that idea and will run with it. 14mm O-ring injectors would need the bosses welded to the head. Not impossible and could be done even if the head has already been machined to take the Desno injectors.

With the injectors removed from the inlet manifold, the possibilities are far greater. I have designed the one shown in the pictures below. It will clear the alternator, distributor, oil pipe (not cooler hoses that stick straight out), the bonnet stay bracket, dip stick, bonnet catch and the headlight bucket of a Moke. It will allow an oil cooler to fit below it.

It has enough room for the plug leads (just) but changing plugs will probably require taking the manifold off.

The coil and starter solenoid need relocating.

I won't clear the widened slam panel of a Rover with remote bonnet release. It also puts the throttle body in a spot that would clash with the remote brake booster fitted to an S or similar. It may allow fitment of a Rover style MC and booster unit.

I haven't finalised the design where the throttle body mounts. I think I will mock up something out of foam or timber to really get the TB in the right place. My car has the brake booster fitted so I can't easily do this bit.

I have sent these images off to a mate to get advice on how much it would cost to get fabricated.

All runners are equal length and are 260mm (10 inch) along the centre line. All runners are 1-1/2 inch OD (38mm).

Hopefully 2013 is the year that I can get this thing going.

M

Mokesta, any reason why it's important to clear the dissy? I reckon you're more likely to find a brake booster in that engine bay than a dissy. I mean, if you're injecting, wouldn't you also go distributorless ignition? I don't think I've seen a MegaSquirt conversion that doesn't have distributorless igntion... So, that means you could locate your throttle body there, and leave space for option of a booster. Being 'just' a throttle body, it's not like it needs to be oriented any particular way. And using coilpacks instead of the stock coil means you're relocating the coil anyway.

I'll be watching on with interest.

That is a very good point, most people would remove the dizzy when injecting. I have left it with clearance because I was considering using the Mazda BP motor EFI parts on this engine. That motor uses a cam angle sensor built into a distributor body and I have been looking at grafting that onto the lower half of an A series dizzy. I do have one of Ben's crank trigger kits so if my Megasquirt PNP (Mazda BP direct replacement) can be configured to use that I will.

I have the injectors, CAS, wiring harness, throttle body and other bits from a BP engine so the EFI is easy to get working. The throttle body has a big idle control unit and a coolant path for anti-icing and cold engine idle up. The TB is therefore quite bulky. Much bigger than its 2" size would suggest. I doubt it would fit in the space vacated by the dizzy considering it needs an air filter and the starter motor is close by too.

I will mock up the plenum and try to find a good solution for the TB location.

What are people's thoughts regarding a 2" throttle body on a 1275? Too big? Too hard to control at low throttle openings? It is off an 1800. Should I be trying to get a 1.75 inch TB? The first use of this system will be on an NA car, no turbo or supercharger yet.

M

I'm making my own IM for my twinki head conversion. I've looked through google and havn't found a thing theirs a lot of people on a heap of forums talking about TB, IM and runner sizes and no one can give a clear answer. Their is long formulas and calculations but no clear answers .

I'm going to read through David Vizards stuff and see if he knows what we want to know.

From what I've read each item (TB, IM and runners) affects each other but seeing as you already know your runner and IM sizes some of those formulas you'll come across in google may be more usefull to you.
Their was talk about vac in the IM should be natural at peak power, too much vac around peak power means you TB is too small. If their is no vac well before peak power the TB is too big.

My best suggestion is google search for an hour and see what you come out with. Also your IM design looks like it would be relatively easy to swap TB after you've road tested it.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

I'm asking in here as I know a few of you have actually measured it.

What is the spacing between the middle ports?
I want to order my Pipercross filter backplate for the twin Dellortos but my head is a hundred miles away.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

Stock swift gti (1298cc) pushing close to 100hp at the fly has a 45mm throttle body, 50 should be ok, most people fit a 60mm the when chasing more power.

Sorry for the late reply. I have been in Mount Isa this week and not logged in. I measure the middle port spacing at 93mm and outer spacing at 90.

M

Thanks for that!

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Too many cars, and too little time.