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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 8:37 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: sunbury victoria
I guess.. Would just be a lot of money to spend for.. The same as what you had


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 9:01 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Thu Mar 22, 2012 7:56 pm
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Location: Melbourne
meeni wrote:
If you were going to go to all that trouble why not use an engine with a bit of power?


Because it seems that no one has ever done it, I will be modding a 1275 to go with the rwd, I'm thinking twinky, efi, small turbo.

Thanks again for the info, been reading those articles with a lot of interest.

Paddy


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 9:03 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2004 10:32 pm
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If you want a 1275 and rear wheel drive just buy a Sprite or a Midget.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 10:33 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Hobart, Tasmania
The Ranger 89 wrote:
seeing the top link in the post above you could make a custom transfer case that bolts to the rear of the gearbox and run a prop shaft to custom a rear diff and subframe


Yes, you'd want to take the drive directly from the output pinion in the gearbox. The 4wd Mokes passed the drive through the crownwheel of the diff then out the rear, but if you didn't need a front diff you'd run the drive through bevel gears straight out the back. It would need some good machining though.

From a purely theoretical engineering standpoint its quite interesting to think about, but as the others have said, its a heck of a lot of effort to go to to make a crap car from a good car.

Tim

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 12:31 pm 
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Timbo wrote:
From a purely theoretical engineering standpoint its quite interesting to think about, but as the others have said, its a heck of a lot of effort to go to to make a crap car from a good car.

You know, the easiest way is probably a chain drive...


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 1:53 pm 
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1098cc
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Yeah, I was thinking that, but there would be as much, if not more, engineering to design a housing for the sprocket to keep the oil in the gearbox and the chain would be so long that it would need something to support it to stop it slapping and sagging down. It wouldn't take much stretch to make a mess of it.

A shaft drive is much tidier.

Tim

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 2:02 pm 
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Take the chain drive off the outside of the diff housing and not straight off the pinion. You might need to remove the steering rack and half the floorpan to give adequate clearance but I can't see any major problems. :lol:


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 Post subject: bg
PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 7:38 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue May 05, 2009 6:32 pm
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Location: Gosford
here
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/to ... d-r1-mini/[/list]


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 9:32 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2011 10:46 pm
Posts: 526
Location: S.A
Cut the firewall out. Fit 1275 from a midget, regret deeply.

I can only imagine that a short wheelbase and rwd would make the mini a demon for handling. Twin engined minis aren't known for their predictability (some were known for their sucidal tendencies) you will miss the understeer after it becomes horrendous oversteer.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 12:05 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 1:26 pm
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Location: Adelaide
Special Tuning built a 4WD Clubman GT up for rallycross in the '70s but it had major reliability problems. A while back MinWorld did a story on it - it was recovered from a barn an few years ago and has now been restored in the UK and the powertrain 'upgraded' to make it more viable.

There was also a Mini Sports Sedan that used to run at Oran Park that had a Holden motor up front driving through the rear wheels.

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