ok so since my run to Rylestone i have had major overheating issue,
my car heats up to the point that it starts to flow our the overflow hose...
i have recently put a new thermostat and had to also put a head gasket in.
im thinking my next step is to either check the radiator or the water pump...
ideas welcome
cheers Peter

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Carpe Diem
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1967 Deluxe (Bluey)

If she was over heating before the head gasket change then definitely check your radiator and cap. But worth checking the bypass hose between head and waterpump for a leak.
If your mini sits alot a big run may have stirred up crud in the engine block and blocked up the radiator core.
Cheers Rob.

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82 BJ42 just completed resto
64 850 Modified(about to start rebuild)

Cheers yeah it has been sitting for over two years.

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Carpe Diem
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1967 Deluxe (Bluey)

The cheaper pressed steel impellor waterpumps will rot all the blades off in two years standing, and the alloy of the pump can bung everything up too.

I'd take out the rad a thoroughly flush it, remove the pump and see what youve got!

Good chance to hose out all the block base through the water pump hole too.

Cheers

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Sir Alec! we are not worthy!

take radiator out, flush and reverse flush it, check condition of water pump, the cast impeller ones arent too dear these days, check that thermostat is in working condition and perhaps put one or 2 holes on the side with a drill... that should fix most issues, is the fan on the right way? (genuine question)

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

also flush heater both ways if there is one

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65 panel van Sprog
73 panel van Iggy

I dont have much faith in radiator flushing as such. Its much better to take the radiator and take it to a radiator repair place. They will take the top and bottom tanks off and push a rod through all the pipes so that they are all clear. Then they will solder the tanks back on again and you know you have a totally clean radiator.

A mini radiator is only just adequate and you only need to have ten perecent of the radiator sludged up and you have over heating problems.

While the radiator is out its a good time to take out the water pump out and check the impellors. Replace it with a steel impellered water pump. Its also a good time to wash out the sludge in the block in the head and block.

The rodding of the radiator is not expensive in the big picture. Last time i have one done it was less than $100.

Mike

Gulgong Mike is spot on. Its an easy job and costs $99 in the 'Gong with Simon Eckersley. And for mine i didnt risk an alternative radiator (such as an aluminium one) for fear or the fasteners not aligning properly.

Just one other very rare possibility is an air lock in the cooling system if all else doesnt solve the problem. The rule is cheap and easy things first, radiator cap, hoses, pressure test, thermostat (observation of radiator level when operating temperature is reached), then more serious stuff like radiator / water pump and if water (not condensation) is coming out of the exhaust, or large air bubbles emanating from the radiator go for a new head gasket and all that goes with it. You then may well find the mould brass welsch plugs have corroded. Some heads have all cavities blocked (12G940s) and others do not.

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..still waiting for the Italian Job sequel to see if the bus went down

Could be some blocked water galleries in cylinder block & or head, reducing or stopping the cooling system working efficiently . . . especially since its been sitting so long. A-series blocks have a tap or bung at the back on the drivers side about an inch above the bottom of the block, if so remove and if no coolant/water flows remove corrosion with a drill bit by hand . . . this does take awhile if in engine bay, this will also prove that your cooling system is only partially working. Food for thought.

Could be yer bent tin impeller water pump looks like this-



Cast iron impellers last way better (longer than the pump will).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

anyone have any tips on how to check and get rid of an air lock?

I've personally never had a air lock in a radiator on a mini I just leave cap off fill it with water and then top up again after car is started never had a air lock

I had the same problem, I pulled the rad out twice and flushed didn't make any difference so I bit the bullet and got new rad new water pump new thermostat all for about $150 cheap cheap cheap well worth it runs cooler now

Did all that and by the gauge it's still running hot

Test the gauge with an infrared thermometer on the thermo housing.

BTW it is normal for a 1275 (particularly) to throw 1/2 the water out of the top tank as it expands. There is (usually) a level marker inside, below the filler neck for this reason.
But note, the rad is still full of water when hot.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.