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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 9:36 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
hey all, some of you know, I have an AEG163 head on my shelf..., yep a genuine Cooper "S" Mk1 head ....

Well, at the moment, its a paperweight, small crack between the inlet / exhaust on number 4 cylinder .(normal aparantly).

Anyone had one repaired ?

How many $$$

Was it sucessful ?

I know a Mk1 "S" head is worth $$$$$ but is it worth $$$ to repair ?

Hmmmmmm
Then agin, I might just get it welded and whack it on the Brick's 998 !
J

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 9:57 pm 
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1360cc
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i know Doogie just chucks them out..... :P


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 10:23 pm 
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Yes they can be welded there, but the only way that works is gas weld it with cast iron filler rod. After preheating slowly to a dull red. Then cooling very slowly. Helps if you have a small furnace.. to heat and cool it in. 8) No I don't have one now.
Becoming a lost art now, people just bin them instead.

Cracks elsewhere on cast iron heads I have successfully bronze welded, but between the ports gets too hot for that.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 11:32 pm 
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1360cc
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Looks like the bin James :cry:

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 12:36 am 
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1275cc
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Dont bin it..... use it as a door stop or a wheel chock...

Then brag about using a GENUINE cooper head for that purpose :wink: 8)

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 12:45 am 
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ET 13.457 seconds , OH YEAH !!!!
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Haha Ooooo that's evil :twisted: , I Like :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 9:04 am 
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are they worth that much, i have three at home two bare one with valves, only one has a small crack where the rocker post stud goes.
others are apparently ok.
still dont reacon they are as good as a 12G940 with MKI valves though.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 9:36 am 
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998cc
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:D
A bit more info on AEG163 heads.
If you have one that is not cracked you can reduce the chances of it cracking between the valves by dressing back the sharp edge left where the valve seats meet. The valve seats run into each other and have a sharp ridge which probably gets red hot during running. When it cools down cracks can start from this sharp edge. Did this on a couple of AEG163 heads and had no cracking problems. One advantage over a 12G940 is that they don't have those infernal brass plugs on the head face that come loose.
Are they any better than a 12G940? Port shapes are different just below inlet valve seat. An old Mini racer reckons you can get better port shapes with a 12G940.

Hope this helps
RonR


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 6:14 pm 
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miniron wrote:
:D
A bit more info on AEG163 heads.
If you have one that is not cracked you can reduce the chances of it cracking between the valves by dressing back the sharp edge left where the valve seats meet. The valve seats run into each other and have a sharp ridge which probably gets red hot during running. When it cools down cracks can start from this sharp edge. Did this on a couple of AEG163 heads and had no cracking problems. One advantage over a 12G940 is that they don't have those infernal brass plugs on the head face that come loose.
Are they any better than a 12G940? Port shapes are different just below inlet valve seat. An old Mini racer reckons you can get better port shapes with a 12G940.

Hope this helps
RonR

re the brass plugs that come loose..
I now fix them the same way Keith Calver does:

1. Remove plugs by tapping a 5/16"W thread in them and pulling them out.
2. tap the existing holes in head out to 3/8"BSP.
3. Screw in tight a 3/8" BSPT brass hex head plug, which has been shortened a bit, and drilled thru 6mm diameter. Use Loctite 262 on the threads.
4. Put in mill and deck the brass plugs and the head face. :wink:

Will never come out again! :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Last edited by drmini in aust on Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 6:32 pm 
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ill have it :) paint it and put it on my shelf :) work of art

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 Post subject: Great tip Ron
PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 7:23 pm 
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miniron wrote:
:D
A bit more info on AEG163 heads.
If you have one that is not cracked you can reduce the chances of it cracking between the valves by dressing back the sharp edge left where the valve seats meet. The valve seats run into each other and have a sharp ridge which probably gets red hot during running. When it cools down cracks can start from this sharp edge. Did this on a couple of AEG163 heads and had no cracking problems. One advantage over a 12G940 is that they don't have those infernal brass plugs on the head face that come loose.
Are they any better than a 12G940? Port shapes are different just below inlet valve seat. An old Mini racer reckons you can get better port shapes with a 12G940.

Hope this helps
RonR


Terrific tip Ron...keep em coming...Mini parts are now a finite resource :!: :D

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:31 pm 
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we used to fix em by cutting a hole in the top of the head so you can weld them from the back of the crack,,,inside the water jacket,,,the problem with cast welding is the awsome amount of pourosity that "can" occur & allways seems to come to the top of the weld & obviously not where you want it to be pourous...so by welding from behind, the pourosity doesn`t bother the hard weld area where you want it all clean,,,if you get my drift, then just weld the plug back into the top of the head, easy-peasy :-) still a tough job & yeah as the good Doc says,,,heat it up,,,weld it,,,slow heat cool it back down & then re-shave the thing from the massive warp you`ve just created by the heat factor :-)

& the loose bung thing???...welll...another eay one,,,i pull the old plug out,,,thread the hole,,,make up cast iron taper threaded plugs, screw em in with locktite & shave it, sweet as a nut & never ever have another problem with it again,,,easy-peasy :-)

i hate brass plugs in cyl heads, what a pain!!!!! & whoever decided to design such a silly bloody concept aught to be shot! :-) cheap asred bloody pohms!!! :-)

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