Mokesta wrote:
My injectors are standard Bosch 14mm with o-rings into bosses welded in the manifold and o-rings into a tig welded stainless steel fuel rail that is in a C shape so it goes to all 4 injectors.
Very clever, mine are shaped like a V with each injector facing the opposing inlet valve. Because of this I had to run hose tails ala VL commodore. Would prefer o-rings to make removal hence cleaning injectors easier?
Mokesta wrote:
I don't yet have: Suitable computer, crank angle sensor discs and sensors to put inside the dizzy housing. I want to use a Motec M4 or Haltech E6 and two Jacar crank triggers.
I typed for 1/2hr before some Fwit tried to call (damn dial up)and lost the lot

.
A shorter version of what I typed is,
I?ve got a mini dizzy with Toyota wheels (24 tooth/4 tooth, with the 4 converted to 1 tooth) and Mazda RX7 series 4 sensors. This was very cheap as the Toyota dizzy was a 4AGE or something from an importer (it was crushed on one side) and the Mazda bits I got off a friend who had put a dizzy on after doing the conversion and didn?t need the stock mazda crank angle sensor.
I modified the dizzy to fit the bits but if I were to do it again now I would put a sensor, either with a wheel or a hall effect/magnet set up, on the cam pulley. This is because of the slop in the crank to cam to dizzy drive (inaccurate) and it is much less complicated. You can still use the dizzy with a single bosch coil and ignitor to keep it cheap, you just take out the contact points.
For the ECU you must get the advanced tuning options which allow sequential, individual cyl trim and end of injection timing adjustment as I think you already know. When I did mine haltech didn?t even have a ECU with sequential but their new
E6X seems to have all this. Also if you buy the base model
Motec M4 you must get the advanced tuning options, which the Pro comes with standard.
Cheers
DOZ