In the uk people wrap the heater pipe from the head around the inlet to stop the manifold getting too cold. One clever cha on tmf made a double skinned manifold and used it as a heated manifold.

They are very good numbers most people don't see over 140. The 112 lca seems to be the magic number with the cams.

What cc is the engine?

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998 SC12 61atw

Engine is 1340cc
Yes I am thinking about winding some small diameter copper pipe around the inlet pipe and then feeding some heated water through it.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

interesting - my RE83 is at 106 I think



Michael, do you know what lca GR ended up with when he set up your engine on the dyno?

edit: maybe I'm confusing LCA with cam advance/retard...

I think it is set at 112?

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

112° LCA for his turbo cams, this includes the RE13T, Simon. And I think the RE83T. This minimises charge loss out the exhaust during valve overlap.
Most of his NA street cams are around 105-106 though.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The 112 was for Supercharged engines. My car is running a 266 at 106deg and makes good power, but that is due to a number of things like head, valves, cam, fueling, ignition control, etc.


It would be good to have some data on what works best in a supercharged engine as they seem to want something different than a turbo. Most of the data or information you find it related to turbos

I do think that it's only when you want to squeeze the most out of an engine that it really matters. Most of the reasonable choices seem to work ok.

I would be tempted to try a newman injection cam or the Kent 274 next time the engine is out.

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998 SC12 61atw

yes, I was confusing LCA with cam advance...

mine is an RE83 - not RE83T - I think I have one more unground 1100S cam so maybe next time it's out

I would like to play around with the cam advance. I rebuilt my mates 1130, and after consulting with GR we timed the (unknown but 'hot') cam at 106*, but it was a bit flat, we pulled it out and put it at the 112* it had before the rebuild and it's a very different animal

Looks like the engine with just the carby is now sorted.
Was an issue with the timing of the Megajolt, but should be OK now.
Plan to put a few miles on the car before the Supercharger goes back on

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

The easter bunny has been busy.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Very neat engine bay I like it a lot.

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998 SC12 61atw

Took the mini for its first Supercharged drive tonight
Woo hoo
Just need to sort out the condensation issue on the inside of the inlet manifold which causes moisture buildup in the base of the carby therefore hesitation when starting off at intersections and lights
Probably dangerous
But all OK if the power is kept on

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

it's fun isn't it



so basically water falling out of the air and running back down that big long pipe? I was wondering if that'd be an issue... try going for a drive on a cold foggy morning

gives a whole new meaning to the carby "flooding"

Might be a bit late for a re-design but what if you had the carby mounted as close as possible to the SC then run the inlet pipe down to the grill, maybe even have the filter down the front to free up some space near to top. Would that help prevent the moisture running into the carby.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Does the heated air filter not help? I am hoping to have mine drivable this weekend and was looking at the wires to hook up the heated element.

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1965 Riley Elf
1974 Ex Army Moke
1997 Rover Cooper
2002 JCW Cooper
2003 JCW Cooper S

heated air filter element??!! never heard of one of those - found it on vmax's site - "K&N filter with anti-icing heater £100" - is it just a big resistor to heat a plate or??

it's venturi effect over the bridge of the carb, and the fuel that cools the air and makes the water condense out of it, not so much the temperature of the air itself, but the moisture content. Same thing as why your hands go cold when you get liquid on them and blow on it - the liquid absorbs the heat, and the fast moving air blows it away

someone will have the proper explanation for it...

I would always find (no matter what the weather was like) a half a teaspoon of water sitting in the carb, just behind the bridge - it had nowhere else to go. I designed my injection manifold so that there is nowhere for any fuel or water to sit, it all goes into the motor

I used to get a very thick coating of ice over the outside of my manifold from the cooling - froze the throttle open so I had cruise control on the freeway. One time the car kept steady at 100k's for at least 2-3 minutes with my foot off the accelerator