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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 12:00 pm 
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Location: Howrah, Tasmania
does anyone know how to drain oil from the dashpot on my 1 1/2inch carby.

This is my dash pot:
where can i drain a little bit of the oil?
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Now the reason i ask is because my mate put a bit more oil in it and now my throttle is VERY VERY sticky.
So id like to be able to drain just a little bit to get the pedal feel right.

Cheers, Rhys.

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2000 Holden Rodeo TD - The Daily
1998 JDM Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V -The Weekender
1977 Leyland Mini 998cc, 1293cc in the works - The project
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 12:03 pm 
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Grab a syringe and suck it out


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 12:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 01, 2008 11:02 pm
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Location: werribee vic
I use a cut off drinking straw to fill and drain the dash pot

To take some out just put the straw in then put your finger on the end withdraw and take your finger off once its in a container

I mark mils on the side so I know how much I,m adding or taking out


.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 12:09 pm 
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Take off the air filter and push the piston up all the way. If there is too much oil the excess will be forced out the vent hole in the lid. (a bit of rag over the hole will soak it up)

If no oil comes out it is not over full.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 12:09 pm 
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998cc
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Thanks for the bloody quick replys guys.
im driving it roughly 400kms on sunday and didnt want to have to put up with it.

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2000 Holden Rodeo TD - The Daily
1998 JDM Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V -The Weekender
1977 Leyland Mini 998cc, 1293cc in the works - The project
1977 Leyland Mini Van - Sold
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe - Sold
2004 MINI Cooper S Chilli - Sold


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 12:13 pm 
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Drive it...any excess will be gone in a matter of minutes.....

Edit: If it's not, then you need to ask questions about what your mate put in there!


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 12:17 pm 
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thanks guy. ill try em all.
my mate is an experienced mini owner.
and knows a heap, he just put a bit of valvoline 20w50 premium in it. which is what i have run in the motor, but now changed to XLD classic.

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2000 Holden Rodeo TD - The Daily
1998 JDM Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V -The Weekender
1977 Leyland Mini 998cc, 1293cc in the works - The project
1977 Leyland Mini Van - Sold
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe - Sold
2004 MINI Cooper S Chilli - Sold


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 12:26 pm 
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There is no ideal oil to run in them, you run whatever works best. My 1275 with twin HS2's like ATF, yet my van with 1100 and single HS2 will only run well with engine oil.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 12:34 pm 
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Speedwell Racer wrote:
Now the reason i ask is because my mate put a bit more oil in it and now my throttle is VERY VERY sticky.
So id like to be able to drain just a little bit to get the pedal feel right.


What exactly do you mean by "sticky"?

Because the two things would not be related. The oil in the dashpot is not a lubricant. It'is a damper for a piston that alters the mixture. It stops the piston from rising too quickly when you accelerate suddenly and causes a change in mixture.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 12:40 pm 
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Sorry i didnt put more detail.
When i accelerated my pedal would stop kind of like jamming up then id have to really stomp on it to unstick it.
Ive drained a little oil and it feels better so ill take it for a burn.
Could it be caused by an over tightened accelerator cable?

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2000 Holden Rodeo TD - The Daily
1998 JDM Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V -The Weekender
1977 Leyland Mini 998cc, 1293cc in the works - The project
1977 Leyland Mini Van - Sold
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe - Sold
2004 MINI Cooper S Chilli - Sold


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 12:48 pm 
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Speedwell Racer wrote:
Sorry i didnt put more detail.
When i accelerated my pedal would stop kind of like jamming up then id have to really stomp on it to unstick it.
Ive drained a little oil and it feels better so ill take it for a burn.
Could it be caused by an over tightened accelerator cable?


That would be totally unrelated.

I would have a good look at the cable. Have a good look at both the pedal end and the carby end. With the engine off. It should feel smooth.

Feel how the throttle feels by operating it by hand (engine off) at the carby end.

Is the cable in a position with a tight bend?

Check the return spring at the carby end is doing it's job?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:00 pm 
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I was just wondering would it be the accelerator cable not sliding through its black protective cover?
Because when i pulled the old one off it had a bit of oil in it.
And i didnt put any oil down the new one.
I was thinking the oil may lubricate it a bit and stop it from sticking.
No there are no kinks in it ive checked.
It runs a perfect curve from the firewall out over the top of sparky no. 4
And over to the carby. Its almost a perfect half circle.

_________________
2000 Holden Rodeo TD - The Daily
1998 JDM Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V -The Weekender
1977 Leyland Mini 998cc, 1293cc in the works - The project
1977 Leyland Mini Van - Sold
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe - Sold
2004 MINI Cooper S Chilli - Sold


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:09 pm 
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The throttle cable is made by lots of fine wires twisted to make core of a single cable. Often the small wires fray and catch in the outer cable. No amount of lubrication will stop frayed small wires catching and jamming the throttle.

Check the cable first. If neccessary replace it - most bicycle shops will sell you a suitable cable from a bicycle hand brake - just trim it to length.

However - check other things like the throttle return springs and other objects that could be causing a jam.

The dash pot oil is not the problem but also check that the needle and seat is properly centred. That can jam a dashpot piston as can having the dash pot cover incorrectly tightened or out of round. The piston must rise and fall evenly without catching.

Mike.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:15 pm 
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Location: Howrah, Tasmania
Accelerator inner cable is fine not frayed at all.
Return spring does its job.
Piston in the dash pot rises and fall perfectly.
Also i took the heater tube out under the dash and pulled the cable from the cabin and i cant do it by hand.

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2000 Holden Rodeo TD - The Daily
1998 JDM Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V -The Weekender
1977 Leyland Mini 998cc, 1293cc in the works - The project
1977 Leyland Mini Van - Sold
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe - Sold
2004 MINI Cooper S Chilli - Sold


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:20 pm 
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Speedwell Racer wrote:
I was just wondering would it be the accelerator cable not sliding through its black protective cover?
Because when i pulled the old one off it had a bit of oil in it.
And i didnt put any oil down the new one.
I was thinking the oil may lubricate it a bit and stop it from sticking.
No there are no kinks in it ive checked.
It runs a perfect curve from the firewall out over the top of sparky no. 4
And over to the carby. Its almost a perfect half circle.


I had similar issues with a brand new cable a couple of years ago. Bought from a reputable Mini Parts shop.

So I took it back and he exchanged it for another (we figured a dud one maybe).

Second was the same, and the third. The cables looked and felt perfect but refused to operate smoothly. Even the mechanic checked everything. Really had us scratching our heads.

Parts place was apologetic and was going to look into a different supplier.

Anyway in the end I payed extra for a "premium" (?) cable from an online supplier.

I can probably figure out where I got the good one if so PM me.

Anyone else had similar issues with cable quality??

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)


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