for those of you who have wired their 4efte's, do you just need the engine loom for the stock ecu to work?

here's a crap picture:



also, there's some plugs i can't identify, can i just cut them off?

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Successful Trades: Benjamin, minikook, Gordo, 2 S's and a clubman, mattsmadmini, shadow blue, 1018cc, -=MiniMafia=-, hueylui

I would recommend looking at this document which I posted a few months ago (after TONNES of hours documenting the 4E-FTE loom). It documents EVERY connector in the cabin & engine looms
http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/wiki/EP82wiring/EP82%20Starlet%20Wiring%20and%20Connectors.pdf

The PDF is documented from my EP82 Starlet wiring loom without ABS however the EP91 loom should be very close to the EP82, just with slightly different shaped connectors in some cases. I don't know which model 4E-FTE your loom is from but I am confident this should help you out heaps to determine which wiring can be cut.

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-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.

thanks that was really helpful...

so would this be correct to get it running with stock ecu?
or could i get rid of sub harness conector (50), vacuum switch valve (51) and idle up valve (52)?
i figured keeping in circuit opening relay (1) would be easier or should i wire it in elsewhere and remove 2nd fuse box?
is it also fine to remove cat converter overheat (66), hvac sensor (68), coolant switch for thermofan (69), temp sensor for dash (70)

it's an ep82

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Successful Trades: Benjamin, minikook, Gordo, 2 S's and a clubman, mattsmadmini, shadow blue, 1018cc, -=MiniMafia=-, hueylui

A few quick comments on your requirements :

- I doubt youll be using the Starlet HVAC/Air-Con, so connectors 50,51,52 & 68 can definitely go
- Connector 70 is only used by the dash mounted temperature gauge
- No need for Reverse switch connector 54 if you have no reverse lights on the Mini
- You DO need connector 12 (for ECU) and the wiring that leads to connector 36 (ignition / key barrel)

The 2nd (cream coloured) fuse box is for cabin/interior stuff so you can safely get rid of it but just ensure that the wiring that runs from the battery to the ignition barrel and circuit opening relay (and from that relay to the fuel pump and ECU - see wiring diagram on pg 18) are maintained.

Read, re-read the document, LABEL EVERY CONNECTOR, check three times, cut once!

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-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.

thanks heaps...

will read, re-read, read and go insane

one last question - do you know if i need the knock sensor for the ecu to work? my uncle broke the plug removing the loom and they're hard to come by second hand and expensive to buy new...

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Successful Trades: Benjamin, minikook, Gordo, 2 S's and a clubman, mattsmadmini, shadow blue, 1018cc, -=MiniMafia=-, hueylui

The knock sensor is connectly directly to the ECU and is used to retard the timing. They are indeed expensive to buy but you will find that it's the same knock sensor that is used in the Corolla, Supra, Starlet, Chaser right up to around 2000-2002. Have a look through http://www.toyodiy.com for part numbers and try and get one 2nd hand?

What I can't tell you however is if the ECU will throw an error code if it's not connected.

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-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.

It does throw an error code... Then It rev limits/fuel cuts. Built a starlet from ground up and that was the only connector I missed. Right behind the motor under the inlet manifold!

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.