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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 9:17 pm 
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hey all

Im slowly collecting parts for go-hard motor.

I wanted to know a few things:

* Would the alloy I-shape conrods that GR sells be ok to use in a weekend warrior? (Or should only be used in race motors as they dont go well in continuous use or somethng?)

* As i understand, the reason for lightening the components of a motor is to allow it to rev more freely and more quickly.
- If i was going to make a stroker is the benefit of lightened alloy conrods still beneficial? Or is self defeating, given strokers are not meant for high revs etc

Thanks Brenton

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 9:51 pm 
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Bubbacluby wrote:
hey all

Im slowly collecting parts for go-hard motor.

I wanted to know a few things:

* Would the alloy I-shape conrods that GR sells be ok to use in a weekend warrior? (Or should only be used in race motors as they dont go well in continuous use or somethng?)

* As i understand, the reason for lightening the components of a motor is to allow it to rev more freely and more quickly.
- If i was going to make a stroker is the benefit of lightened alloy conrods still beneficial? Or is self defeating, given strokers are not meant for high revs etc

Thanks Brenton

First off these GR rods are alloy steel, not `alloy'.
Will be fine in a road motor.
Anything you can do to add rod lightness reduces stresses on the crank, wedging a stroker crank is a great idea too. It lightens the rotational weight and improves counterweighting.
Even with all this done, I still would not rev a roady stroker past 6500-7000 if you want it to last.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 9:59 pm 
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1275cc
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Thanks Doc.
That answers my questions Cheers

Oh one more question i have heard when you use these sorts of rods you have to be very careful with them as it is very easy to put weak points on them, if they are not completely smooth etc (ie suppose you bash the side of the con-rod during assembly and take a small divit from it or something like that) Is this true/the case with these ones or only other alloy ones?

I could probably ring Graham and ask him, but he has lots of things to do :wink:

I appreciate the help

Thanks

Brenton

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:51 am 
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These aftermarket rods are machined all over, so unlike normal rods are smooth when bought.
You should not have to bash at rods to assemble or disassemble, so your question mystifies me. :? I use a nylon hammer to get caps off if tight on the bolts.
BTW the bolts supplied in these rods are ARP, so for the price they are a bargain.
[edit] Note these rods are same width as Cooper S ones, so if building a stroker with a 12G1505 crank they need to be narrowed to suit.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 10:06 pm 
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Location: Cowra
Thanks again Doc

Your always willing to offer advice

Thankyou

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