What are the pros and cons for a lightened flywheel in a fast road car (1310, 40 DCOE weber, will have RE13 cam)?

It won;t be doing any track work, but as the engine's out now is the time to do it if I'm going to. And whilst the cam is at Graham Russell's.........

Kevin.

Go for it, Graham R can do it to. Best would be to face off .200" and then have .200" spacers made to put the straps back in original position. Must be re-balanced once this done. Steve

just remember the lighter the flywheel the less tork but you have higher rev's
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Go to somebody you can trust to machine the flywheel properly...

You dont want it to self destruct infront of your shins at high revs.... the debris will go straight THRU the firewall.... it CAN happen

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

.200" off as Steve said is the go. Don't drill holes thru it like steel ones have.
Safe to 8000- no worries in a road car.
GR can balance it for you too.
I would leave the backplate stock, unless it is an S one (number 22G270 on it).
As 1275s accelerate up hills anyway in top gear, lightening it will not affect the torque. It's not a 1 cylinder steam engine...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I cannot decide whether to go steel or just get a stock one machined down and balanced. I suppose machining a stock one would be a fair bit cheaper... how much lighter are they?

Vizard reckons the combined weight of flywheel & backplate (28 lbs) can be reduced to 18-19 lbs.

I've done both on mine, didn't weigh it though.. I have a scale at work, so I'll weigh Chong's flywheel before and after I do it this week.

I have seen cast iron flywheels drastically lightened further, with big holes drilled through, but I won't do them that way- too risky, IMO.

I wouldn't bother with an ultra light steel one for the road, it's overkill I reckon.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ooops...how did that get there???

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Matt, are those cast iron ones, if so what do you rev 'em to, safely...?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I would have to agree with the Doc, i have heard of a few std flywheels blowing apart at high revs so one reduced so far as to have holes in it scary stuff.
always remember, where the flywheel sits is right between your legs, so if it goes so do you

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

i love the look of those lighten flywheels man. How much do they weight n how much are they and where can i get one? What do u do for backing plate? (use the one iv got or get one with it?
Im keen to get one for my blown 1275 im building.

Wow, geez, I wont be going THAT light with my flywheel.....

For the backing plate, get hold of a 22G270, start by having the angled rear section shaved off it.... then remove most of the excess from the outer ring as seen below.... Need to leave SOME metal for balancing...

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

Holy Sh!t Matt!..those things are scary

If your going to fit one of them. Convert to LHD

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Hey, good idea....

[note to self: do not offer to navigate in a LHD rally mini...ever]

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

If it's a competition clutch by all means shape it as shown, but I wouldn't thin the back down- you need thickness there to counteract deflection under load, make it too thin and you will lose clutch grip.
They are not real thick to start with.
BTW 22G270 (SG iron) are not real common now in road cars, most are the 998/1098 type which are only grey cast iron. Don't make 'em too light or they can go BANG!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.