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 Post subject: Headlamp relay
PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 4:19 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
OK, so I bought it a month ago... but I've finally fitted it. :lol:
`New Era' (Japan) 57-70012 12V 30A twin fused relay. $35 at SuperCrap.

Piece of pi$$ to install. I screwed it down onto the firewall just above the heater ducting flange, cut the low and high beam wires that were going past, and ran a 4mm2 feed from the solenoid battery stud and a 4mm2 ground wire.
Lights are definitely brighter now, and I don't have 10A or so going thru the light and dipper switches any more. 8)

I will bin all those bloody red connectors behind the grille soon- I got some nice 4-5mm2 solder/heatshrink joiners from Bias Boating. No more corroded joints... :D

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Last edited by drmini in aust on Tue Oct 05, 2004 7:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 7:25 pm 
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Location: sydney
Almost the first thing you should do to any mini, unless you want to keep it to original spec. BMC cars were and still are an electrical disastor. Go into any auto electrician and hear them groan the secound you pull up. They will find just about any reason not to do work on your car.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 7:55 pm 
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hahaha
dont go on about the rust

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 12:03 am 
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I love my Heat srink....The hole front Loom will be redone in it Plus relays.....I need a closer inspection Doc.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 12:48 pm 
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Is it as straight forward and easy as that doc?

the relay i mean.. sum people recon i should also relay my horn!!??

yay or nay?

-Cam 8)

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 12:57 pm 
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Black_Van_73 wrote:
Is it as straight forward and easy as that doc?

the relay i mean.. sum people recon i should also relay my horn!!??

yay or nay?

-Cam 8)


It won't hurt but it's not really that necessary. Lights are a REALLY good idea to do because the voltage drop causes a noticable reduction in performance. And the fact that lights are on constantly. Well, while you're driving in the dark anyway. A horn on the other hand is used momentarily.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 1:09 pm 
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kool ok... well wot color wires am i looking for in the way of headlites?
Ive gotta 71 mini K wot color are they likely to be?
or is it a multimeter job?

is 20A ok or is 30A a nessesity?

-Cam 8)

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 1:19 pm 
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Black_Van_73 wrote:
kool ok... well wot color wires am i looking for in the way of headlites?
Ive gotta 71 mini K wot color are they likely to be?
or is it a multimeter job?

is 20A ok or is 30A a nessesity?

-Cam 8)


Wiring diagram is your best friend.... see your manual. On my clubbie however, the wires concerned were blue with two different coloured traces, one was a white trace and the other red (I think). Best to consult Manuel before you go hacking into the loom, but it is a relatively simple mod and if you use a new era relay, the terminals are labelled.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 1:50 pm 
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I'll put a relay in when I get around to put the angle eyes in. :lol:

When that will happen, no one knows. They have been sitting here on the floor for MONTHS!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 2:31 pm 
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thort u sold ur angel eyes>?? u bort 2 sets?

-Cam 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 3:13 pm 
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I did sell em, then decided to keep them :lol:

Makka needed me to wait for him to pay, cause he was shifting. I changed my mind while waiting :lol: :lol: :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: Headlamp relay
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 10:26 pm 
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Location: Helensburgh NSW
drmini in aust wrote:
OK, so I bought it a month ago... but I've finally fitted it. :lol:
`New Era' (Japan) 57-70012 12V 30A twin fused relay. $35 at SuperCrap.

Piece of pi$$ to install. I screwed it down onto the firewall just above the heater ducting flange, cut the low and high beam wires that were going past, and ran a 4mm2 feed from the solenoid battery stud and a 4mm2 ground wire.
Lights are definitely brighter now, and I don't have 10A or so going thru the light and dipper switches any more. 8)

I will bin all those bloody red connectors behind the grille soon- I got some nice 4-5mm2 solder/heatshrink joiners from Bias Boating. No more corroded joints... :D


People don't realise what a diference it makes. Now put some 125/90 watt globes in and it will be even better. Don't solder wires on a car as they will break, that has been my experience.

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 Post subject: Re: Headlamp relay
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 11:13 pm 
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Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
Chris wrote:
Don't solder wires on a car as they will break, that has been my experience.


Only if you don't know what you are doing....you can certainly add to the integrity of an electrical connection by using soldered joints......where people go wrong is letting the solder creep up the wire from the connection which makes a solid blob of solder with a multi strand cable swinging off it...add some vibration or rough handling and Viola!! broken connection.

Gaf is right to love his heat shrink....

correctly applied, it can relieve the strain on the wire exiting a connection and resist breakages and protect it from knocks and vibration.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 11:30 pm 
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Location: Helensburgh NSW
What most people do is solder on the wire side of the crimp that holds the insulation. Don 't do it past that and it is ok.

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 Post subject: Re: Headlamp relay
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 11:38 pm 
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Chris wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
OK, so I bought it a month ago... but I've finally fitted it. :lol:
`New Era' (Japan) 57-70012 12V 30A twin fused relay. $35 at SuperCrap.

Piece of pi$$ to install. I screwed it down onto the firewall just above the heater ducting flange, cut the low and high beam wires that were going past, and ran a 4mm2 feed from the solenoid battery stud and a 4mm2 ground wire.
Lights are definitely brighter now, and I don't have 10A or so going thru the light and dipper switches any more. 8)

I will bin all those bloody red connectors behind the grille soon- I got some nice 4-5mm2 solder/heatshrink joiners from Bias Boating. No more corroded joints... :D


People don't realise what a diference it makes. Now put some 125/90 watt globes in and it will be even better. Don't solder wires on a car as they will break, that has been my experience.


Be careful with the high wattage globes..I put 100w globes in mine and it melted a nice hole through the top of my light housing ;)

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