Ausmini
It is currently Tue Jul 08, 2025 3:07 am

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 77 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 12:24 am 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Thu Aug 20, 2009 12:31 pm
Posts: 631
Don't count out Dave Rs Honda F4 Head conversion, They are a bit more common than the K heads not to mention more modern.

How much work can you do your self?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 11:08 am 
Offline
ausmini mod
ausmini mod
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 06, 2006 8:47 am
Posts: 1938
Location: Kellyville, NSW
TheMiniMan wrote:
Meeni, if you want to stay 5-port, then buy some quality valves & get GR to do you a nice head, then add one of his RE13T cams,,, chuck a GT2560 onto a custom manifold & with a bit of a hunt around the UK you should be able to pick up a turbo carb & manifold (i think i have a turbo inlet manifold here)

then bob`s your Aunty

make sure your gearbox is up-to-par

slip in a slippery diff

& away you go


Agreed.
Depends where and what you want, mine is over the clutch housing but many put in other places.
Easiest and cheapest way though would be to get a manifold off Ben (he should have some already made) whack a GT2560 on it. Thats the turbo I am running however with different front and rear housings.

Dont forget, you need more to make it 'work'

You need;
- Fuel pump capable of 4psi higher than your boost level (ie, if running 10psi need 14psi pump MIN)
- Fuel Pressure regulator (rising rate!)
- Fuel return line back to the tank
- Turbo profile camshaft (just call GR for one)
- Turbo carb (HIF44 blow sealed - for blow through) or any for suck through
NOTE: If suck through you cant intercool!
- Diff wise - I run a quaife but you dont HAVE to put it in yet.
- Dump pipe and exhaust
- If going turbo I would suggest looking at the ignition system. Dizzy works but you cant control it as much - I would look at Megajolt setup
- If blow through intercooled - you want the intercooler piping, intercooler, silicone hoses, etc.
- Plenum
- Oil lines - into turbo AND for the drain - (braided hose I suggest)
- Plate or something made to get the oil return to drain oil back into the sump.
- Turbo exhaust manifold gasket (the one with metal I suggest)

Prolly things I left off though.

_________________
Image
Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 9:32 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2004 4:07 pm
Posts: 4682
Location: sunbury victoria
thanks mate, ive been looking at your thread over the past couple of days and how yours is set up is basically what i want, over the flywheel.

youve pretty much answered everything i need

the other question i have is, the guy that will be doing my cylinder head ( ive always used him) wants to know what i want cylinder head work wise, so id like to know some suggestions of valve sizes, springs (im running 1:3 ratio roller rockers), and chamber sizes etc.. if anyone can give me a list of things to do that would be good, even if its just so he can understand it.. i dont want it radical but i want it to be a nice flowing head with reasonable valves etc..

cheers

sean


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 9:43 am 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2004 4:07 pm
Posts: 4682
Location: sunbury victoria
Mayb tter question would be, does the head need to be modified differently for turbo use? Or do the dished pistons do enough?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 11:37 am 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39753
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Benjamin's 1152 ran a stock 295 head (which have ~28.3cc chambers) and the usual Hypatec 1098 dished pistons.
If using a 202 head you would want to open the chambers out (and the ports, then fit big valves, etc).

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 1:39 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2004 4:07 pm
Posts: 4682
Location: sunbury victoria
ive got an a+ 1275 cylinder head sitting there which i intended to use as a base, what is that? 202? sorry im not sure on numbers


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 2:27 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39753
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Your A+ head is a 12G940 of some sort.
You could use that, but need to notch the block if putting it on a 998 or 1098 with decent valve lift, as the ex valves hang over. Because they are bigger, and the valve spacing is greater.

A 12G295 is a 998 Cooper head, a 12G202 is a 1098 (also 997 Cooper) head.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 2:44 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 01, 2008 11:14 am
Posts: 1906
Location: Brisbane Qld, North side
1275 A+ = 12G940


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 4:20 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2004 4:07 pm
Posts: 4682
Location: sunbury victoria
this is going on a 1275 anyway so no issue there..

cheers guys


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 4:25 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39753
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
meeni wrote:
this is going on a 1275 anyway so no issue there..

cheers guys

No worries then. Except that if you are going turbo I would not go to 73.5mm bore (1380cc). The cylinder walls are too thin by then for the big BANG! of forced induction. 1330cc is safer.
"If ya want more inches, stroke it" (as they say). :lol:

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 4:36 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2004 4:07 pm
Posts: 4682
Location: sunbury victoria
yeah i was probably only going to go one or two sizes up.. maybe one just incase i have issues at first so whats that? 1293?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 4:57 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39753
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
meeni wrote:
yeah i was probably only going to go one or two sizes up.. maybe one just incase i have issues at first so whats that? 1293?

+.020" = 1293
+.040" = 1310
+.060" = 1330

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 11:49 am 
Offline
ausmini mod
ausmini mod
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 06, 2006 8:47 am
Posts: 1938
Location: Kellyville, NSW
Make sure you go bigger on the exhaust valves for sure. Get double valve springs and GOOD valves.

I STRONGLY suggest you get it k-lined also... and if it doesnt already add the extra head stud.

Use a metal backed exhaust manifold (not just the paper one)

Cheers,
Pete

_________________
Image
Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2011 9:27 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2004 4:07 pm
Posts: 4682
Location: sunbury victoria
what is k lined? sorry im a retard by trade..

i have another question, will a rod change gearbox casing from an 1100 engine with pot joints go on an a plus block without issue? its just wether or not i should buy a fully built straight cut gearbox or just buy the gears and a rebuild kit and do it on a box that i have already, i kind of want to leave my 1275 in the car as long as i can so i think il be building the entire motor from scratch


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2011 9:30 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39753
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
meeni wrote:
what is k lined? sorry im a retard by trade..

i have another question, will a rod change gearbox casing from an 1100 engine with pot joints go on an a plus block without issue? its just wether or not i should buy a fully built straight cut gearbox or just buy the gears and a rebuild kit and do it on a box that i have already, i kind of want to leave my 1275 in the car as long as i can so i think il be building the entire motor from scratch

`k-liners' are spiral grooved thin bronze liners that are put into standard iron valve guides. Commonly used in race engines.
They conduct heat from the valves better, and run closer clearances too.

1275A+ block bolts straight onto any rodchange box, you just need a 1275 primary gear.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 77 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 9 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.