Ok,

So I've had my Clubby for a little while now, and recently got it back from a gearbox rebuild (main shaft was in 2 pieces, no idea how it drove before I got it in there?)

Now, next problem is my exhaust has snapped, right at the weld between the center pipe and he extractors. from he looks of the messy welds at this point it has happened a few times in the past.

Now I know I could probably get this repaired at an exhaust shop rather inexpensively but would rather replace with a stainless system so i know it shouldn't happen again in a few months.

are there any full systems easily available.

I found this and at this point is what I will be saving for.
http://www.minisport.com.au/prod364.htm

Would I simply be able to bolt this up myself or will it require anything special? relatively new to this world but quite keen for a bit of d.i.y.

Engine is a 1275 (1320 i believe, lost the list of specs) with twin carbys. Cam, high comp pistons and some other things I can't remember.

Cheers for the help

Cory

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1975 Leyland Clubman -1320cc

The cause of cracking is usually engine mounts and exhaust mounts.
Fitting stainless will not stop it breaking again if there is another problem. Stainless will probably crack sooner if there is a problem because it is not as flexible.

Stainless exhausts were only fitted to stop them rusting out. This is a big problem in England but not as bad here. (My 1100 is still running the 1966 muffler and tail pipe)

I would hate to see you spend more and not fix the cause.

I'm with Morris 1100 on this one, a stainless system will not deal with shock and vibrations like a steel system will - and shock and vibrations are all that the exhaust has to deal with.

To answer your second question, bolting in a new exhaust is a piece of pie. If it's just the exhaust (no extractors), you just unbolt the old one, replace the rubber mounts, put the new one in. The only special thing required would be 2 1/2" spanners and perhaps a mallet for tapping things on or out.

The extractors can be a pain to get in place - I've heard some people remove the top engine mount to get in in place, but I've never had any real trouble. I think it depends on the brand you get. But again, it's just a matter of unbolting the old exhaust manifold (which will remove the carby too), slide the new set in place, and 'lightly' do up the nuts attaching it to the head. Then attach the y-piece and the gearbox mounting piece (again, using 1/2" spanners), then fully tighten the exhaust to the head. If you're putting in both exhaust and extractors, put in the extractors first.

Okay so I had a look today and there seems to be no mounts holding the exhaust up whatsoever.apart from right at the back of the tail pipe.

The engine mounts all look fine to me, plus the guys ay mini craft who did my gearbox had the engine out so surely would have let me know if the mounts were screwed. So I'm guessing it must have something to do with the lack of support.

So would you guys recommend against stainless? Is its only benefit aesthetic?

Cheers.
Cory

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1975 Leyland Clubman -1320cc

also, thinking of maybe lcb extractors, but read something somewhere about gearbox linkages or? getting in the way. what is the go with this?

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1975 Leyland Clubman -1320cc

There should be three mounts under the car - one at the very back, one further in at the front of the rear subframe (so these two attach to the front and back of the muffler) and the mount at the gearbox. What exhaust do you have? If it were the stock 'pea-shooter' exhaust, I don't think it would have survived with only the rear mount (or perhaps that's why it's breaking!).

My comments about installing extractors before were actually about installing LCB extractors - these should be well suited to a 1320 engine (unless you want to go all-out with a 3-into-1 setup, which I know little about).

I've also heard similar things about LCB extractors fouling the gearbox linkage- someone else might need to give some more info here. Suffice to say, if you have a rod change box it should be fine.

Personally, I'd advise against a stainless setup, more money for (arguably) no gain. If you like the look, then go for it, but it won't solve the problem of your exhaust breaking.

Not sure what exhaust it is.definitely not original. Lukey muffler I believe. center exit. Definitely only one mount.

Cheers

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1975 Leyland Clubman -1320cc

If it only has one mount then that will be the cause of the extractors breaking.

Agreed.

Here should be the piece you need:
http://www.minisport.com.au/prod865.htm

You'll need something to attach the exhaust to this mount. If it's a 1.75" exhaust, you can probably use one of these (these are designed for an RC40 exhaust):
http://www.minisport.com.au/prod1236.htm

And a long u-bolt to attach the exhaust to this (or you could just use some wire, I suppose).

The rubber mount attaches to the front of the rear subframe. Even with a centre exhaust, I imagine it will still run past the mounting point - there should be two bolt holes on the rear subframe where the rubber mount attaches.

okay, one more question.

which extractor would best suit my engine?

LCB or 3into 1?

Large or std Bore?


Noise isn't really an issue. Nothing too excessive though, mainly a road car but would like track performance and hopefully as time goes on, get it to the track more and more, so I guess maximum mid to low end hp gains would be my thing.

I have a good month to save (fly in fly out, so wont see it for a month) so really price is not the issue.

Cheers guys, absolutely love this car!

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1975 Leyland Clubman -1320cc

There are three common types of extractors - cooper freeflow (or 'perry') extractors, LCBs and the 3 into 1 extractors.

The cooper freeflows are best for small-bore engines, so not really for you.

The LCB's are the best all-round - the difference between these and the cooper freeflows on a small bore are minimal, but they are best suited for 1275s. The standard bore (1.75") will work fine for your engine, but if it's been worked a bit and you want to work it further, you might consider going up to the large bore (2").

3 into 1 extractors are designed for racing. I've had no experience with these, but I believe that they are best for peak power and not much else. I could be wrong here, but I've seen plenty of LCBs on worked road 1275s, but very few 3 into 1s.

Just remember - bigger isn't always better. Extractors are so called because they increase the flow of exhaust, and can help 'extract' the remaining exhaust gasses. If your extractors and exhaust are too big, the flow won't be fast enough, and it can actually lower your power. So I'd suggest an LCB.

Awesome, I do plan to continue working it so a 2"lcb seems like the go. What options or brands are best?.

Thank you for the help. I would be lost

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1975 Leyland Clubman -1320cc

Can't say I know much about the difference between brands. Maniflow seem to be the only common brand, and there seem to be several other smaller brands I just don't know anything about. So I can't tell you if there is any significant difference between brands.

okay, so I've very roughly patched it up so I can still drive around without waking the dead with a baked bean can some hose clamps and some exhaust putty.

Think I'll be getting a Maniflow Big Bore LCB and Maniflow twin box big bore system when I start back at work.

Just 1 more question...

I understand the mount at the rear subframe that was Irish
specified, but what about the one closer to the engine? which piece would I need?

Cheers guys.

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1975 Leyland Clubman -1320cc

You don't need the big bore LCB, medium bore is all your motor needs, even for track time.

This is the mount that goes at the front of the rear subframe -

http://www.minisport.com.au/prod865.htm

There is an exhaust fitting kit, for the RC40 actually, but will do other mufflers etc, has all the mounts, brackets and clamps that you need. Is ggod value for the price.

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Steve