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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2005 8:23 pm 
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1. i gots an auto mini... i can gets an auto moke haha

2. ive got a written off 2004 kawasaki zzr250 engine still good
ive got a 1971 honda cb250 with no rego no clutch, looks old

3. im a uni student

4. which problem do i deal with first...

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2005 11:44 pm 
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Quote:
thanks matt

hey im in my last year of Mechanical/Biomed Engineering
and can apply the 'theoretical' calculations regarding stress, strains and fatigue
if needed
but dont want to

can i ask what you're doing it based upon
is it good old intuition?

and what kind of engineers did you approach


This part first, yeah pretty much intuition, and overengineering, and trial and error. Luckily and this is no lie I haven't had to cut something off which is highly suprising. I did put one on the spars less than 90 degrees to the back of the subbie but it ended up working in my favour (equally surpising). As for engineers I rang up my version of the RTA in the ACT and they gave me a list of auto engineers that they recognise and I rang each one up telling them what I wanted to attempt and just went for the one who either a) didn't laugh or b) didn't say it had to have everything worked out (ie a plan!).



Quote:
Matt, have just read what you were saying and have two quick questions.

1. Do you plan this on paper or is this a mould, change, weld, unweld, change, check, modify, weld again, check, change etc etc process...?
2. What do you say to an engineer..? I understand building, so if I want something built I go to an architect who draws it all up and then I talk to a builder who understands from the drawings what brick needs to go on what brick... but what do you take to an engineer..?

(apologies for stupidity... the simple questions come before the hard and more technical ones oh master..)


I think I answered 1 a bit above. I did make a jig that I sat the subframe in which is always a definite don't try this without sticking the subframe i a jig, that my first piece of advice! I then sat the engine in the jig after cutting the front of the subframe away, then measure, judge, have a go, hope for the best, and most times it worked out OK.

As for the engineer it was a strange situation. He came around with his clipboard and I basically showed him the Mini as it was and I had another dry frame sitting there and basically described to him what I was trying to achieve. He nodded alot and rubbed his chin and mumured alot. I told him I was going to use a jig and he seemed reasonably impressed by this. He went away and wrote his initial report (I don't know what happens to this?), then he says give me a yell when it is running? From there we are going down to the old Canberra Dragway and I have to put it through its paces and if the whole thing doesn't fold up like a pretzel I get my certificate then it is off to the Rego people. Most engineers I spoke to are either perfectionists and purists or pesimists (ie it can't be done) just keep going till you find one that shares the dream, but don't go ahead without one as there is a good chance that no matter how good your work you won't find an engineer that will certify a completed project.

Cheers

Matt

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 8:55 am 
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oooh things are beginning to be put in perspective now
i can see the No U-turn sign approaching...

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:06 am 
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998cc
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The force is strong with you 68 matic, but beware the dark side of the force, it is the path to high performance, and great fuel economy!

Cheers Darth Matt

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 1:00 pm 
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1275cc
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ill have a chat to Iwanna and Steve
(steves thinking of twin turboing a mini
or his 1100)
maybe we can do three at once

question: can we get 3 same engines
alter/make 3 same subframes
and bung them in
one english 850,
one moke
and one 1100?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 2:22 pm 
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You may have spotted in an earlier thread, I'm very happy to stick whatever engine into whatever chassis... its Not a Cooper "S", so its basically worth squat....

My next trick will be to bung a larger blower on the Brick, then onto the meaty stuff ....

Rota-Moke

J

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 2:52 pm 
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sounds groovy "rota moke"
what would ou put in it?
im not familiar with the mazda engines
i dont know if they go by cc, or by number of gaps/cylinders,
valve openings/camshafts,
standards that we're all used to with the conventional pistons

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 7:03 pm 
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There are plenty of 13b (1300cc twin rotor) motors around & I've seen conversions into lots of cars, but never a Moke.

Would you try and keep it FWD? All the other conversions have been RWD using the RX7 gearbox. Some of those things put out ridiculous hp with big turbos.

Like the idea but - great power & you might even get the weight under 500kg :twisted:

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 11:50 am 
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998cc
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Location: thornleigh sydney...round crnr from suzitech!!!!
if the 1.6 bolts into the charade with minimal mods...


why dont u just put the 1.6 in the mini???

i know what the 1.3's look like....never seen the detomaso though!!

goodluck,

let us all know how u get on

blake :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2005 10:44 am 
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Hey Matt. Thanks so much for the advice. Certainly puts things into perspective. Can I ask what sort of "consultation fee" an engineer charges..? Is it on a project basis or on an hourly basis..?

68matic. CALL ME. Lets talk... ha ha. If you want to get three engines, three subframes done, we will have to get identical engines and stuff. I dont know if I particularly want a twin turbo in my 850. Sounds cool.. but would scare the sheet out of me trying to drive it.

AWDMoke. All that power in a moke, you would certainly want to avoid FWD wouldnt you..? The wheel spin would mean it would just not be drivable in most occassions.

Lobby. Apparently there is an equation which you use to determine the maximum engine size to car weight (there is another thread about it somewhere) so 1.6 would be too big. Plus I want the 1.6 in the Charade so then I have TWO fast cars.. ha ha. I might just change over the plates to make it look like the Mini is running the 1.6 and the Charade the 1.3 still... hmmmm :wink:


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2005 11:28 am 
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I'm building the Moke as a 1275 Auto for now, but eventually I would like to fit a GTi or Micra engine. So if a group is thinking of making a bulk lot of GTi subframes, add me to the group!!

I still reckon an Auto subframe is the best type to start with. They have more room at both sides and around the front of the motor. I know the sides would need to be mostly cut out, but the front section where the tie bars mount could be welded to the new subframe sides and would provide more clearance than a Manual one. :)

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2005 12:19 pm 
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IwannaMini wrote:
AWDMoke. All that power in a moke, you would certainly want to avoid FWD wouldnt you..?


if you AWD it, you've gotta get the running gear towards the rear wheels as well
which means a centre axle and a diff
and new wheel axles
and a raised body for all that stuff under there
:cry:

i'd like to convert Trev for reliability, long life
and coz he's just sitting there
not really speed, power or torque
thats the matic's job

youve seen how i drive :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2005 4:27 pm 
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68matic wrote:
if you AWD it, you've gotta get the running gear towards the rear wheels as well which means a centre axle and a diff and new wheel axles and a raised body for all that stuff under there


Ahhhh hence AWD Moke young Duck... :lol: I think that the adaptation of the subaru system is amazing and cant wait for the finished results.

I have seen a similar change over where a mini has basically been bolted onto a suzuki sierra 4WD chasis. If it wasnt for the fact that even a crap sierra is a couple of grand that would be the way I would be going with things. BUT for now, an engine and brakes change over will be sufficient. :wink:

Oh and yeah I have seen you drive. Maybe ripping the engine out, putting holes in the floor and going Flinstone style will be more your answer for speed/reliability/longevity equation


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2005 5:21 pm 
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a 13b is 2.2litre sorry to dispel the though it would be a 1.3l
each rotor has a capacity of 1.05 or 1.1 ltre times that by 2
a rotor motor has 3 main parts that move the two rotors and the excentric shaft by minamiseing the moving parts the recipricating mass is lowered allowing the fewer parts to move much faster there are also two sparks per combustion stroke (not really a stroke cos the parets move in a circle) if you would like more infomation i will get my nephews mate to come up and tell you all about how and why
makka

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