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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 5:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 9:23 pm
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Location: Adelaide... RADelaide!
Nice work! It's funny how the months/years just pass before you get a chance to get these bloody projects complete! I don't even want to think how long my project has been already - and i'm not even at this stage!

Where in Adelaide are you Slinkey?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 8:46 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:31 am
Posts: 3183
Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
Yeah, good on you Slink!!!

You have reached a amjor milestone and its all downhilll from here.

Good work mate. Another 4EFTE powered Mini on the road soon.

Cheers,
Tricky

(gives me some motivation actually!)

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 9:07 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 9:45 pm
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Location: Adelaide, SA
Cheers guys!

I'm setting a completion time of the end of 2011 and this is a pretty solid deadline, but entirely achievable.

The finish on the paint is nowhere near perfect. It shows up a lot of poor body work by myself here and there, but overall I'm really happy to be moving on, it'll look a lot better polished anyways.

And now that it's painted I can start putting the beast together.

Amos, pm sent!

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T 8)


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:03 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 9:45 pm
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Location: Adelaide, SA
Alright, I've got a bit more work done. I've actually spent days on the car but not much to show for it. I had to paint the inside of the doors, boot and bonnet, and also had to paint the door hinges. I got the front subframe powdercoated as the chassis black paint i bought was rubbish. I've spent a bunch on parts to get this car together and finally vinyl'd my roof.

Here's some pics:
Image

The vinyl roof turned out alright for a first go, getting the gutter trim on was the hardest job as it's not designed to go over a gutter and some thick vinyl. It eventually worked though, but not perfectly. I decided to do the roof from a single piece of vinyl rather than 3 pieces like many I've seen on Minis (although the 3 piece roofs may still be a single piece but with 2 seams sewn in). If I did the roof again it would look a lot better but I think it's good enough for now and I'm very happy. It was still easier than painting the Union Jack roof on the red Mini years ago.

Image

This photo is just to prove that this is a 4EFTE project, not just a modified Leyland Mini. The powdercoating came out awesome but wasn't cheap which is against my running plan for this car to do as much work as possible on this car (appart from the subframe construction/modification) but since I painted the car, and now vinyl'd the roof i felt I deserved to splash out on some professional work!

The project is moving along nicely but i am going away next week for a couple of weeks so the progress will halt. But I will be right back at it in mid-Jan and hopefully see the engine in for the last time!

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T 8)


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 10:45 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2004 3:12 pm
Posts: 1461
Location: Brisbane
Can't go wrong with the powder coated frame, looks great and will last

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 5:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 03, 2004 6:46 pm
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Location: ADL
What did they slog you for the powdercoating?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 6:08 pm 
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Location: Adelaide, SA
The blasting, powder priming then powder primer cost $250. Which I thought was pretty pricey considering it's only a subframe but they did do a good job. They said there was a fair amount of blasting involved.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T 8)


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 6:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 03, 2004 6:46 pm
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Location: ADL
Wowee! Yeah that's pricey.
I have had brilliant results (and prices) from the guys at Morestel Powdercoaters in Edwardstown. They own a grit blasters business that runs next door.. handy 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 9:45 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:31 am
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Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
Nice work Tim and yes, good choice on the powdercoating.

When I have done my frames its uslaully $180 plus GST so not a lot of difference.

Merry Xmas and Happy New Year to you mate.

Cheers,
Tricky

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 3:41 pm 
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Location: Adelaide, SA
For last month or so I've been slowly slogging away at the project getting bit here and there finished, but there's not much to show for it unfortunately. :( But still, every little bit gets me that little bit closer to the end product. :)

Anyways, my job at the moment is to get the engine ready to be put in for the last time. I've got a new timing belt, Extreme HD clutch and a Quaife ATB diff all to go in. First off I'm going to do the timing belt. I've bought a workshop manual for the car and it shows in good detail how to do it but I was wondering if anyone else has replaced the timing belt idlerss while they were at it? Where do you get these from if so (Toyota spare parts I imagine....scary thought there) and any snags in the job? The clutch I will do later at this moment I reckon I'll get some professionals to change the diff (mmm....Quaife...) :) .

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 3:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
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Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
When I replaced the timing belt, I purchased a kit which had the two pulleys included however you should be able to buy the single pulleys from Repco, Coventrys and the like. Changing those pulleys is as simple as undoing the single bolt holding each of them in place, remove, put new one in place and tighten bolt to around 20-25Nm.

I have a post on my blog which details how to change the belt (http://mearcatmini.blogspot.com/2010/07/4e-timing-belt-change.html) Remember to rotate the crank a few times and readjust the tensioner to remove any slack in the belt. While you're at it, also check the crankshaft main seal condition.

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I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 7:29 pm 
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Location: Adelaide, SA
Cheers Mearcat! Your blog is very helpful. Looks like I didn't need the workshop manual afterall, oh well.

I think I better do a bit of shopping tomorrow for an idler and tension pulley.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 9:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2008 8:03 pm
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Location: Qld, Brisbane
Most spare parts places (autobarn, repco etc) have timing belt kits, which have the belt/s tensioner/idlers and oil seals. Can be a bit pricey though.

You may be able to get individual idlers/tensioners from bearing shops, like CBC (if they are down your way?) They can probably also sell you a kit


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 9:45 pm
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Location: Adelaide, SA
I do have a new belt but unfortunately it didn't come with the pulleys. It's a gates 'racing' belt but not a kit. There's a CBC nearby too. I was only just down there getting belts recently for the alternator and the water pump.

I'll upload some pics later of my water pump belt and tensioner setup. Although another member on here (I can't remember which thread) has made a similar setup.

_________________
1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T 8)


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