My current engine is on the way out (i thought i had tappet noise, when i had the head off a few weeks ago it would appear to be piston slap due to excessive bore wear) so i am now trying to decide whether to rebuild a hot NA 998 or 1100. Each have their pros and cons but i cant make up my mind. What have other people experienced/prefer?

998- sweetest running of the common a-series motors, will rev very willingly, parts avail very good.
1098- torque monster, will take longer duration cams before becoming lumpy, has CC advantage over the 998, weak crank not good for over 6,000 rpm. Good pistons? not sure

Does anywone also know the availibility of flat tops for 1100's? i recall hypatec making them but i read this a few years ago and also i have know idea who stocks Hypatec pistons anyway.

They're ain't no substitute for cubes...

I have a hot 1098..wouldn't go back to a 998..ever..

Bored to 1152, lightened flywheel, RE-13 cam, 295 Head...

It's a really strong motor, good for about 50HP to the ground. There will be a few of us here with similar motors soon.

You don't need more than 6,000rpm, that been said i can take mine to 7k+ easily (saw over 8-9k once too when it went WOT after the throttle return spring popped off!) and it hasn't had any problems..(wait for thread tommorow when the crank does let go haha..nah touch wood ) Not making anymore power after 6.5k anyway as we proved on the dyno day..it'll change at 6.5k all day, been to track days with this motor and all ....

I'm not too worried if it does break...need and excuse to build up the 1360 Block i'm probably a good candidate for their reliability...

I know flat tops are available somewhere, someone else will chime in with details i'm sure..

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

1098 cranks are good for 7000. Graham Russell loves 1098s, reckons they are a great motor. He has seen 110HP on the engine dyno from one.
I reckon for a road car they are the next best thing to a 1275. Can't beat cubic inches..

Performance 1098 pistons (ie flat tops) from UK are now hard to get, I've been told.

For Hypatec pistons, talk to either Russell Engineering, or Ken Nelson at Mini Automotive. http://www.miniauto.com.au/home.htm

If not available, Russell Engineering can get specials made, if you have the $$$.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for the input... 1100 it is. Ill be running the 295 which i think is stock- the inlet ports are huge compared to a 202, should i bother getting any work done to it? As for cams i was thinking either an re-13 or a 276 Megadyne. It will be an everyday driver so it needs to be drivable.

295 is off a 1275 motor but bolt straight on as woth Mini Mad..you'r lucky
Minimad and I are both running the RE13 cam and love it in our 1100.
You just need to think about what Carb..I run a HIF44 and Minmad uses a Dellorto..expect around 50Hp at the wheels in an 1100 motor

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Gaf, a 295 is NOT off a 1275 it's a Cooper 998/Sprite 2A 1098/MG1100 head.. 8)
You are confusing it with something else...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

OKay
Sorry Master

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

At least he didn't say 925 this time

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

You know I'll do it again

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

ok here goes first all the work was carried out by LW parry in sydney ph 9599 2871
they gave me heaps of help and explained everything to me (this was the first time i had built an engine.) but my dad was a mech engineer and he said the machining was really good and was very happy.

* chemical clean of engine and component $55
* messure check inspect & report $27
*remove and replace welsh and gallery plugs $39.60
*rebore and houn 4 cylinder to suit piston $148.50
*surface grind cylinder block face $59.40
*remove and relace cam bearings $36.30
*contour grind 8 cam followers faces $35.20
*demantel and rebuilt & align 4 piston and conrod $48.40
* bore and hone 4 conrod tunnels $66
*crack test 1 cylinderhead $27.50
*recondition & surface grind of 1 cylinderhead $148.50
* remove and replace ring gear (not part of engine rebuild) $27.50
* supply 1 set of pistons and piston rings $244.20
* 1 set of conrod bearings $63.80
* 1 set of main bearings $69.30
* 1 set of main bearings thrust $13.20
* 1 set of gallery and welsh plugs $33.00
* full engine gasket set (1275) $96.80
* 1 competition exhaust valve $46.20
* 1 ring gear $86.90
* remove and replace 4 exhaust valve guilds $22
*supply 4 exhaust valves $28.60
* 8 conrod nuts $44
*Delivery fee $5.50

price exclude GST
TOTAL including GST $1499.30

I got the cam reground later at the same place for $121 including GST

putting this up just incase u haven't seen it

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

Cost me just $1300 to rebuild my latest 1360, all good bits including Hypatec 73mm pistons, new `orange' clutch, RE-13 cam, ARP rod bolts and full balance job. OK.... I got some freebies, and did most of the work, apart from boring the block & grinding the crank....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

it just more and more rebuild it never stops. ordering my gearbox stuff this week can't wait to get it back on the road. and then get it to a panel shop to finish my debumpering

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

Thanks for the pricelist. I will be doing most of the work myself. So far ive stripped a good 998 block (i think ill conveniently leave the 99H prefix on it, who's to know that it'l have a 83mm crank in it)- removed all welsh plugs and the gallery plugs. Is it really worth doing what Vizard recomends and tapping the core plug holes?
Also drifted out the camshaft bearings, the rear one was well and truely rooted. My memory tells me i will have to get the new cam bearings line honed, am i right?

Sounds like the best bet is to put an re-13 in. I would also like to get a lighted flywheel or get one lightened but ive heard bad stories about when they are lightened incorrectly (exploding and fragments amputating legs etc.). How true is this and should i really be worried?

thanks for the input

I say if you're going to spend the money, go 1275! then you can get serious hp at the wheels

Only reason why not do is brakes 1100 is good, Lots of people have said that the 1100's are very strong and I have certainly no complaints about mine.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

well the thing is if i go big bore i have to buy new carb, complete motor and probably an oil cooler to keep things cool. What are complete in need of rebuild 1275's going for these days?
Brakes arent a prob i have a good set of 7.5" S brakes.