Hey Steve!

Yeah I am looking for top end speed and reliability at the same time! I know it's a contradictory but if we build it well and right first time there's no reason it can't have 100 horses for 100,000 miles!

If i told you where I was getting my spec and advice from I'd have to kill you! j/k

None other than our very own, trusty, extremely generous jedi master... Dr Mini! His engine has done a good 60,000miles or so with 115 horses no problems, until wakefield park happened Since I won't be running at wakefield very often (or at all) no worries!

I don't have the money to burn Stevie! I just want a nice remote box 100 horse mini

Yeah for sure Gearbox rebuild. Full rebuild 4 synchro remote box, new S first motion gear, new bearings, seals etc.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

PS. I've started some work already on the engine... well very minor

I took out the small journal crank and 800wet dry'd the minimal surface rust off it last night with WD40. Comes up bling! I greased it up good before wrapping it in a cotton shirt and storing nice and safe in the corner.

I also checked out the S con rods that I got. Very nice indeed once I've gotton the rust off. It will need to be machine wire brushed but it has come up real good so far. The bolts will have to go and we'll use the ford conrod bolts as a replacement (after some mods of course).

I also checked the pushrods that I got from Kazjim. Not bad actually! I did the old roll them over a flat surface trick to check if they are straight, no problems there. After WD40 and we dry they came up good as new! Have to check if they are all same length, some seem to be micro metres shorter (or longer) than the rest... not sure, dun care for now!

All now sitting in a carboard box, drenched in WD40 with a t-shirt over it. Should be good stored like that for another year at least...

Thanks for the advice Kev, you're a legend!

EDIT: I was thinking about chrome plating the flywheel housing!!! what do ya reckon?! how much would that cost? anyone have an idea?

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Hey boys, what about one of these?

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=32795#

11pounds instead of standard 22 pounds! that's got to count for something!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Very nice. Now all you need is a competition steel backplate, for even more weight saving!
More $$$$$$

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

LOL ok ok I'll settle down now... was getting beyond myself!

Just the standard flywheel it is. How much for Mr Russel to grind the flywheel? I might get it done now before i spend too much and I have to start sleeping in the couch! What else can be done now while I am waiting Kev? block bore and hot dipped??

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Chong,
As you're a good bloke, I will machine your flywheel for the usual consideration (slab of Hahn Premium)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

What the Crownies aren't good enough??

OK I will come around this weekend to check the valves on these heads. Not many weeks left...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Crownies will be long gone by the time you get around to wanting the flywheel done. BTW yes they are both good beers..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

"Now all you need is a competition steel backplate"

Hey Kev, did those ones of Ours machine up ok ?

I still have to grab one off you (you get to keep the other, right ?)
J

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One is in my car... secret weapon #5...
The other I'll do for you real soon, when we get the new mill at work (couple of weeks)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

No biggie, engine has to come out anyway to do it......
I'll do it the same time as the gearbox and Steering box....


just need a bog box of round-toits....

J

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Hey steel backplate? What is this and more importantly do i need one?!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Remote change arm reconditioning

I just took apart the remote arm that I've got to clean it up and reassemble it and repack it with the 30 litres of grease that it had in there

While it is apart, should I replace any bits that may be worn? 3 things that I can think of the are:

1) The copper damper plunger thingy that is held in by a spring and bolt on the side of the arm
2) The plasticy split bush that goes into the primary shaft lever (where the ball of the gearstick goes into the primary shaft lever. Any idea how to get this thing out???
3) The distance piece rataining spring

I mean, to me the arm seems to be fine and not loose or anything, I just thought mable there were standard parts that you always change when you pull apart a remote arm that's all.

The arm itself I paint stripped and steel wooled, degreased and shot with a high pressure hose at car lovers last night. It's NEW condition now Was going to put it back together but I need a new dust cover and since I am going to Padstow, i thought I'd ask about other bits.

One note: will LM Grease be ok or should I pack it with HTB Grease?

Cheers!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

You should be able to pull the rod out of the middle by taking out a rubber seal at the end of the remote change and then it should be easy to get the nylon gearstick bush out. Or I just stuck my little finger inside it from the top and pulled it out but maybe my little finger is the right size

Oh that's right you take the rubber seal off and then slide it back out the end of the remote casing there is a bolt at the bottom of the cast bit that holds the nylon bush, undoing this lets you slide the cast bit off and the rod can slide out the other end.

I just read that back and it as clear as mud but I hope it helps anyway

changing the nylon bush thing made a reasonable amount of difference to mine but mine was boken and badly worn

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

No they are not steel. Stock Minis are grey cast iron, Cooper S was SG iron (stronger).
Don't need one for a road car. SG iron one is better for lightening though. p/no is 22G270, good luck if you find one..

<edit> re the grease, any grease is better than none. HTB is stiffer & makes less mess.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.