If the straps are not parallel it won't cause clutch judder, as straps are all in tension under load- what it will do is cause a vibration `sizzle' when you change down and dump the clutch (straps now in compression).

Before adjusting strap heights clamp it all up with a diaphragm on, and look under the diaphragm with a torch. Get the diaphragm's spring flat first.

Usually when the spring is flat etc, the one standard washer under the straps will make them parallel.

Judder is usually caused either by the backplate and flywheel not parallel with each other (eg one backplate horn is high or low) or crap (read.. Asian etc) clutch facings.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

well it seems to be allot better but not quite right yet.
here are some pics of the setup.






the clutch still drags a bit and is a little hard to get gears, i am not getting the slave to push the arm out far enough, i have replaced all the clevis pins and extended the slave pushrod and it does not bottom out in the bore the clutch pedal is not going to the floor it stops about 1/2 centre from it. but it also sits about 1cm short of the brake pedal height so i am not sure if the master cyl is right or not, it is the latest type with plastic res around the cyl and i think it is a .75 bore
i just dont feel like i am getting the amount of fluid displacement i need. i will try another master i have in the shed and see how i go.

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

I have no experience with the latest type master cylinders so can't help you there. My first thoughts are all the pivot points, how worn are the holes with the new clevis pins? What about the ball foot on the bottom of the clutch arm? Where the ball foot pushes inside the throw out plunger? If all these are worn, you loose much of the little travel you have to start with.
Clutch set up looks OK.

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Steve

[/url]http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/COM711%2FC/AddedFrom/Search2%2DCLUTCH/InvDetail.cfm[url]

there is the buttom clutch but i sujest u read the article about it also[/url]

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

i had clutch problem last time my car was workin. i pulled the clutch of and found a shim snapped and all mess up and uneven wear on the pressure plate and flywheel. i had similar simptom to u. not gettin full extention of arm and hard to change down gears. any idea doc

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

ÖK....flywheel was skimmed parallel...two lots of straps on the clutch had about a 1mm bend in them...the other was flat....when these were changed for flat ones it greatly reduced clutch "judder"...

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"Show me the Mini!"

OK if they were bent, then yeah.. but not if the straps are all flat and their holes are in good nick.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

well last night i pulled the master out, the pedal box out, and drilled out the elongated hole in the pedal and then drilled out the master hole and turned up a new clevis pin to take out the very minimum play it had there, I will put it all back in tonight, i measured the pistone travel of the new master and it is 300mm and then measured the piston travel of an old plastic tank one i have and it was also 300mm (so that is ok) i have already checked the ball on the arm and it is ok plus the plunger is not too bad, my guess after allot of thought is maybe too much was removed from the back plate posts and the diaphram cant phisicaly push it away far enough before it is flat or over flat, what do you think? and it is the diaphram that is stopping the clutch pedal from going to the floor, maybe i need some small shims between the diaphram and the back plate to get the height back up a little?

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

OK, for the clutch to work properly the diaphram must be set up ideally flat. That is how yours looks now and if GR did it, it should be right. Can't see how it could be too much off the posts, the straps are parallel as they should be. As your flywheel has been milled there is no material (flywheel surface) for the diaphram to bottom out on. If you set it up in a press, you should be able to push the diaphram way past what would happen in the car.
The only different thing I notice about your flywheel is the "longer" than usual bolts that retain the centre. Std bolts are not that long, are usually flush with the nut. Not sure of the clearance under the diaphram and these, perhaps these are your source of interference.

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Steve

ok, guess what we have success, yes thats right it is all good now and performes like a dream, it bits like a dog with rabies and no hint of slip at all,

as i mentioned i measured the length of the master cyl stroke and it was the same as the old one, then i also pulled the pedal box out and it was all good, but stupid me when i machined up some new clevis pins for the pedal to master cyl i made one of them about 1mm to long and it was just hiting the housing of the pedal box and not allowing the pedal to go to the floor.
so i fixed that up and put it all back together and gave her a good bleed and bam it is great nice and light (for a grey) and is great to drive.

thanks to all that gave advise and their input.

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

Excellent, another mini clutch working as it should.

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Steve