So at 4250 it will do 110 kph. To me this is about 350rpm to many. I would love to see a dyno torque curve for a 1360 with a megadyne cam in it. THEN it would be possible to figure out ratios properly. Everyone is shooting in the dark without knowing the torque peak. It would be great to be able to run the motor on a dyno before installation, but I do not know anyone who could do this or if it can be done on a normal engine dyno.
In my posts above I do not mean to say that stroked motors cannot be revved or are incapable of being revved. I am just saying that I want to build a motor that has a wide torque band and will not need ti rev to perform on the highway. If it will rev well so be it. It is not a racing car, but will have the occasional track outing so it must be built to do the primary job intended. If I was to build a race motor then it would rev as without revs you limit your gearing options and when the gearbox only has 4 speeds you need all the help you can get.
The occasional high revving in gears or running a racing car is totally different to holding relatively high rpm for hours on end. Holding high rpm in top gear for a long while is not very relaxing for the driver unless the motor is very smooth.Smooth modern Jap motors cannot be compared to the A series. Most of the late stuff have balance shafts, OHC, injection etc. Apples and oranges.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

Chris,
Russell Engineering can run your Mini engine & box on their engine dyno before installation.
They bolt a propshaft to the flywheel, attached to the (water) dyno.
Torque is read directly during the runup so it's obvious where the torque peak is.
If you ring Graham I'm sure he can tell you approx what rpm the various cams (Kent Megadyne or his) peak at, without even running it!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

id change the diff B4 spending all this money...

_________________
BRICKWORX RACING
872-874 South Rd
Edwardstown
SA 5039
PH: 8297 9494
FAX: 8297 7133

Change it to what?

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

engine harmonics is a problem with the A series engine (especially the 1275 & bigger donks) & yes, that`s one of the reasons i posted previously about ,,,& also why we change the 3.4 out to a 3.6 or 3.7, because one of the bad vibe points of the A series is at (or about) 4200rpms, i`d much rather a slightly higher rev (& it`s not much to a 3.6) but will give a very much smoother rev range & ready to pull again at the liesure of your right foot. at the same time will cater for the accelleration needed for track days easy-peasy... those revs are not really an issue for longetivity,they handle it no problemo & last & last & last,,,,it`s all in the build... & the proof is in the pudding my friend

the stroker donk will perform to your needs better than any std stroke engine,,, you want a high, broad, touque band?... then you are aiming at the right donk,,,set up as a road engine they will happilly pull "TOP GEAR" from 1000rpms right through to 7500rpms,,,how much more of a broad pull can you get from an A series???,,,& i`d like to see anyone else say that their std stroke donks can do that with the same accelleration rate as a stroker!!! i don`t believe that you`ll hear that tho.

i suggest that you talk with my dad (Jack) at ReadSpeed MiniMecca in Brisbane & have a little chat to him, you may just well thoroughly enjoy the experience & also learn a great deal from it

(07) 3245 2384

He did probably one of the first strokers in the country & has also done probably more strokers than anyone else also ...& absolutely loves them as a road donk more than a race donk,,, altho i prefer them as both,,, hee hee,,,can`t help myself,,,,they really are the Bling Bling race donk mate!!!!!!!!

really wish you were here about 6 months ago, i`d still have my 8 year old 1510cc road donk in my Targa Tasmania Rally Mini,,,,hee hee,,,,"""EVERYONE"""" that hopped out of that car after a run said """(I WANT ONE)"""" Un-Quote!!!!!!!!!!!!! it`s out now getting a freshen up (sorry) but it`ll be back in my new Monaco fast back road mini as soon as i finish up the yamaha R1 powered lightweight circuit race mini ,,,gotta keep my prioreties in order

it stunned me that those exact same words """(I WANT ONE)""" came out of the mouths of so many people who didn`t know eachother & were simply the result of the enjoyment that they recieved after driving my mini, simple as that!!!

& that`s one of the reasons that i build stroker minis for people, that very statement is satisfaction enough for me.

please ring Jack at ReadSpeed & also talk to Mr "G" (for Grunt) Russel as kev said

I`m just a young whipper Snapper who just likes to stroke things

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

matt put it back in ya pants and just play with mini's
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

here`s one i prepared earlier

wait for them to load,,,,,----->



& in the car--->



Stroker 1415cc Mini donk, with BMW, K1 motorbike, twin cam, 16valve cyl head, running T28 hair dryer & Full """Autronic""" engine management

sorry but i like mating apples with oranges ,,,maybe it`s an Orapple...or should that be applange???


cheers mate & enjoy whatever donk you choose but do ring my dad, you won`t regret it, he`s a Kack!!!! Rhymes with Slack

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Matt's correct about 1275 harmonics. I heard the same story last week from GR- better to run `em for long periods at 5K+, than between 4 & 5K...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You are Kidding me and thats a K1

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

No i`m not kidding you,,,& yes that`s a K1 cyl head,

been slightly modified tho, they normall have wet gears & chain drive inside the front cover & i`ve converted it all to external dry toothed belt drive obviously

we run the original mini cam only as a jack shaft to drive the oil pump & dist (if you want to run a dist anymore)

The radiator & water pump & all the std stuff stays in place & basically only the top rad bracket is changed as with the engine side stay bar brkt

there are quite a few of these conversions comming along now all around the world, all sorts of people are trying all sorts of ways to do it,,,heck even i have 2 different ways that i`ve done myself,

but getting back to the stroker thing, i believe that this set up would have to be the ultimate road/club race, stroker design,,,huge, quiet, lovely power with smoothness, reliability & finess, yet if you want to rev it, then there`s nothing stopping this thing hitting 8000rpms all day ,,, & ive set one up as a short stroker full race weapon & hoping (fingers crossed) it will handle 10,000rpms at 15-20psi with 73mm pistons & a large journal sth African 1071 crank (approx 1170cc) (just to keep the capacity multiplication factor thingy under 2litres for CAMS Sports sedans)


Yummy tell your mummy

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Matt, I'd be interested in your opinion on your Orapple setup vs. a modern Jap conversion (Starlet Turbo, GTi swift)?

I mean appart for the obvious cost considerations, people seem to be concerned about getting that much power through a mini gearbox.

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"Life is not like a box of chocolates... it's more like a jar of jalapenos. Whatever you do today, may burn your arse tomorrow."

Matt how much power is the 1170 putting out? likewise for a stroked version

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Yer Interested to see the BHP if possible..also V's the K1 Head

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Zizzle,,,& Minimad,,,& Gafmo

I`m a born & bred die hard mini enthusiast so i like to stick with mini engines, but, that said , i am doing the turbo charged alloy V8 front wheel drive conversion for one of my speedway minis & also a turboed Yamaha R1 powered thing for bitumen circuit work also, so i`m not dead against engine swaps at all,,,but for road use, the average Joe Blow would have to seriously look at the Bimmer conversion before stepping into the whole "re-design the entire front of the car" thing,,,especially when a std mini handles so dam well, it`s hard to beat,,, & then concidering the over-all costs of both the Bimmer head job conversion compared to the complete front of the car toyota/suzuki job, well,,,in my books it just has to be a better option,,,as for the A series gear box being able to cope???,,,welllllll,,,,,there are so many miths & stories & crap talk about what they handle & how long for, that it really stands the hairs up on the back of my neck,,,so many people have absolutely no idea what they`re talking about , & usually & simply because of pub talk rumours as to how weak they are,,,what crap, they can take an absolute flogging if built properly & they take it for yonks.

I can say that "IF" an A series box was built well & correctly that it could & can quite easilly handle 100hp for sustained periods , for years & years, without any drama what so ever,,,proof is in the pudding with my roady 1510cc producing well over 100 Hp & it took 8 years of shear hell abuse racing nearly 2wice a month for 7 years & then it hit Targa Tasmania Rally for a 2000km flogging & still was able to continue racing club events for another year after that,,,it is buggered now tho , but hey???,,,,that`s a shitload of abuse for a sh!tload of time & it`s just a std rod change gearbox with nothing special inside it except a slippery diff shoved up it`s bum, whoop doop!!!

so,,,in saying that, i know we can get approx 180HP out of our Bimmer headed "Road" stroker on 15lbs boost (possibly more), but i`m not after any more for road use, trying to keep it smooth,quiet & lovely roady & obviously that 180hp is not going to happen through the box for any length of time anyways,,,maybe just on track/club days , hillclimbs, autocrosses etc,,, REMEMBER, I`m not at full throttle & 15lbs @ 8000rpms while taking the missus to work & back or doing the shopping, there`s a sh!tload of homework gone into the build of this thing & the computer is set with 2 programs & 2 seperate fuel tanks & 2 different boost settings,,,the left tank with pump fuel, turn knob to low boost setting(5lbs) & push button to soft power program (1),,,,then we turn the tap over to tank 2 (full of Av-gas) , push program (2)--> (race mode) & hit the boost knob (15lbs) & hang on

definatley No race motor, but quick enough to put the sh!ts up some V8s & rotarys & have some fun at the track with while at the same time , i can drive it sedately to & from the track & still go shopping in the thing, easy-peasy

The 1170cc race version is a bit more complicated as we`re playing with ball bearing turbos & water/water intercoolers & hi boost (20lbs & up) & 10,000rpms etc etc etc...sorry no power figures for that one yet still having probs getting it all together right, sorting cam profiles, lighteneing pulleys, re-working exhaust pipes etc etc etc...but i`d expect a bit over 200hp hopfully more but we can`t be too greedy concidering that we`re planning it to be quite drivable too REMEMBERING it`s only a tiny weeny 1170cc & i`m not slinging the lightest rods & pistons in the world. I`d dearly love to be able to afford some lightweight titanium & alloy internals, one of my good mates (Bruce Ayers) has some old titanium indy car valves that i`d like to swipe off him & turn down for the job & also has a really good contact for some awsome pistons & rods, so maybe in the future we might rip it all apart & fit her up with some decent internals

hope that handles some of your questions,,,

like i said,,,i like the way the mini handles on 10" wheels, all my work on the "New Blew" Targa car was not in vein, i learnt a lot & it is one of the best handling minis that i`ve ever driven, but i know a 10" wheeled mini can handle even better & accellerate even better ,so that`s where i`m headed once again,,,back to 10s it`s pretty dam hard to stick a suzuki or toyota into a mini & use 10" wheels with keeping a decent sort of final drive ratio hey??? not many people think about that part of the equation do they instantly there`s no question but to shove big huge heavy motha brakes & even bigger & heavier 13" wheels on the poor old thing,,,yeah,,,a backwards step in my books

ah well,,,my fingers are hurting & my girlfriend wants me to feed the dogs & pooper scoop the yard

keep the questions comming if you like reading all my dribble,,,shut up if you don`t

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Sounds interesting, mark my words i will be giving my (or another) mini some power in the future, i'm talking 200HP and I am thinking hybrid, I havn't seen anything that tells me otherwise that a starlet powered mini can't handle as well as an A-series one, been on the track in brads and it handles brilliantly, though in my clubbie i quite easily out handled a suzuki powered mini, but it wasn't set up right...

I'm a fan of 10" rims...not a fan of the sacrifice you take in braking and with 200HP i'd want massive brakes..hence I have 12's and 9.2" discs besides 12's look better on a clubbie anyway

It'll be interesting to see the outcome of the K1 beast, but i think that it would cost a hell of a lot more to convert to a twincam head, turbo etc, with all the time and effort/customisation work than it is to take a dead stock motor that you can get off the shelf parts for and cram it in...

Definately a fan of your work Matt, keep it up

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484