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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 7:35 am 
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Hmm.... you can build a new subframe in a couple of days....

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 8:11 pm 
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You could machine this conversion in an 8 hour day :wink: .

Also machining the box down will gain a bit more room in the engine bay and I want to build this with as little new/extra parts necessary. Yes a simple sandwich plate and chain drive from the clutch to the box could work but that's just more things to break IMO :roll: .

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 10:08 pm 
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Ok I finally got off my ass and did a bit more. I took the gear box (rod change as remote will not work for this project) down to the machine guy and had the top section chopped off, a total of 49mm. As you can see from the pics the mini oil pick up is dead but the Suzuki pick up is at the opposite corner so no worries with that.
Machined rod change on the left , std remote on the right for comparison.
Image
Image
Then complete engine compared to an A series.
Image
If anything theirs 10mm or less difference in height :D
Image
The engine overhangs the speedo drive a fair bit but I knew that, just means I'll have to modify where the radiator sits.
I think it may be possible to build this for real (fingers crossed) now I just have to start checking measurements, spaces, adaptor plates and crank end extensions etc etc etc :roll: :D

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 11:04 pm 
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did you check how far down the big-ends swing to see if they're going to hit the gears?

how thick are you going to make the new gearbox flange?

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 8:50 am 
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kudo's to you for having a crack at this.

I don't really get it though. I thought Mini boxes are the weakest link in the a series ( could be wrong about this but that is what I heard). Different is good, don't get me wrong.

D


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 12:15 pm 
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floss wrote:
I don't really get it though...


I think the point of it is an engine conversion that doesn't require any subframe modification, etc?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 1:07 pm 
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spraycanmansam wrote:
floss wrote:
I don't really get it though...


I think the point of it is an engine conversion that doesn't require any subframe modification, etc?


I think the point is that it's just what he wants to do - we don't need a reason, justification or semblance of logic, sometimes we just want to do something because we want to

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 1:42 pm 
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I agree totally simon K. That is why I said kudo's to him. Not having a crack or trying to judge but just curious about it is all.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 2:02 pm 
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simon k wrote:
spraycanmansam wrote:
floss wrote:
I don't really get it though...


I think the point of it is an engine conversion that doesn't require any subframe modification, etc?


I think the point is that it's just what he wants to do - we don't need a reason, justification or semblance of logic, sometimes we just want to do something because we want to


haha nice, couldnt have said it better! :P


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 7:23 pm 
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simon k wrote:
did you check how far down the big-ends swing to see if they're going to hit the gears? I have measured it and I'm pretty sure it will fit, but only on a rod change box.

how thick are you going to make the new gearbox flange? I'm planing on a 1/4 inch or a bit more (5mm to 10mm) depending on what I can fit.

Your all right;
The box should be able to handle the power no worries, so long as I build it correctly. Their are many mini's with more power than this will make still using A series setup's.
One major reason is I don't have to modify the std subframe or drive shafts which are both big cost savers and two less things I need to get engineered.
And yeah I want to do do something different 8) .

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 8:42 pm 
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Kennomini wrote:
And yeah I want to do do something different 8) .


Which is the best thing of all. If we all did the same thing, it would become very monotonous. Kudos to all who push the normal boundaries.

Dicko


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 10:20 pm 
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Kenno wrote:
The crank end adaptor seems to be the issue, being able to transfer the power from the new engine into the mini box is tricky...same problem with any engine block conversion.


so you need something like this machined up?

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 1:02 am 
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Yep so far I've machined the Suzuki flywheel down to just the center so I could have a play around with it. The idea starts to stumble when the bolts come in to it, the UK boys have the same problem. The diameter in between the bolt heads is smaller than the mini crank so you either need to have six groves in the crank with a brass sleeve or something over them that holds the mini gears or get bolts with small heads, allen keys or something but will small heads loose to much strength? Plus the shorter the crank end the better because this affects the spacer you need between the mini flywheel housing and the Suzuki block. If this is to big it pushes the block towards the radiator too much which also affects the speedo pick up and maybe the engine mount.
What I need to do is talk to and engineer or a machinist and figure out what will be easiest and cheapest to do but still be able to handle 150hp or more because if this fails at 8000RPM it will destroy my custom made gearbox and then I'll be back at square one, out of pocket and an idea on what not to do :roll: This needs to be 100% perfect and will need to last 30+ odd years.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 11:47 am 
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Kennomini wrote:
get bolts with small heads, allen keys or something but will small heads loose to much strength?


yes, talk to an engineer, but it's not the bolt heads that do the holding, it's the bolt shanks acting as dowels, and the friction of the two mating faces

Quote:
What I need to do is talk to and engineer or a machinist and figure out what will be easiest and cheapest to do but still be able to handle 150hp or more because if this fails at 8000RPM it will destroy my custom made gearbox and then I'll be back at square one, out of pocket and an idea on what not to do :roll: This needs to be 100% perfect and will need to last 30+ odd years.


I wouldn't be at all concerned about destroying the gearbox - there are much more important issues

someone on a UK forum wrote:
I used to race in the Special Saloons at Castle Combe. Around 1990/91 a good friend (Alan Woodridge) joined the series with a BDA engined Mini; he bought the car after it had been professionally converted. Unbeknown to him, the engine builder had used a flywheel assembly machined from a standard cast Mini unit rather than a new one that had been machined from solid.
During one of the races, the flywheel exploded as he changed down for Quarry Corner; shrapnel went everywhere, including into Alan's legs. He died about three weeks later from an embolism resulting from his injuries.
A sobering thought.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 7:23 pm 
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simon k wrote:
yes, talk to an engineer, but it's not the bolt heads that do the holding, it's the bolt shanks acting as dowels, and the friction of the two mating faces


Sorry Simon, this is the engineer in me talking, based on some very good texts that I consult when I am designing stuff for the race cars.

NO, NO and NO. NEVER use the bolts as the locating device. That is what dowels are for. They are designed to very tight tolerances for the holes to prevent fretting, misalignment and have no threads to act as stress raisers. They transmit the load in single shear very well, unlike bolts.

ONLY use the bolts for clamping. End of story.


cheers
michael

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