Has anyone performed a conversion from an automatic to a manual mini? What is involved or is it not worth the problems/costs?

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Wazza

I have heard that you'd be better off getting a complete manual power unit, rather than attempt to put the auto block onto a manual gearbox - apparently the blocks aren't the same and some modifications are required (which isn't worth it on a 998 block, they are so common)

As for the rest of the car, you just have to add the clutch and master cylinder (I would have thought only a little bit more involved than changing the clutch master cylinder on a manual car), and cutting a hole for the gear stick and bolting the bracket on. Not terribly involved. Of course I'd bet there are a lot of people who'd say leave it as an auto because they aren't that common, but I don't tend to agree with that, manual is much more fun!

Anto.

someone told me if i wanted a manual, its quite an easy process of lifting the car up, dropping the gearbox down, and popping on a manual one.

someone also told me that auto heads were cooper heads and i dont know if it has any relevance to this

and i will leave mine as an auto, it has been an auto all its life and probably will not see 70miles an hour or 4000rpm.
i also dont need to get off on driving a manual, or have the will to abuse an engine... yet.
will get a manual when space and money come visit again

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

Not that simple...
Automatic engine blocks have different oil passages to a manual- there is no oil gallery in the block from the pump up to the relief valve or banjo bolt.

The oil goes from the pump out thru a big pipe th the transmission and filter, then comes back up a pipe into the block.

It CAN be modified to work on a manual- see http://www.austinamericausa.com/ and look under `technical advice-engine/trans/clutch'.

Not worth doing on a 998- but on a 1275....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I thought the subframes were different?....

Also, believe the auto boxes last much longer if you drive them like a manual.

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"Show me the Mini!"

The subframes ARE different. The front channel is curved forward to clear the autobox, and the mounting holes are a little further apart.
But... if you put a 3/8" thick packer plate on each side, the manual box will bolt straight onto it. According to Keith Calver at MiniSpares, anyway.

The autobox will last no longer or shorter if you drive it like a manual. You are just changing the shift points, not the shift method. If you want it to last longer, change the oil every 1000 miles and the filter every 3000.

AP autoboxes are pretty hardy things. I've had 3- 2x 1275s and a 998.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

my oil has been in for about 800 miles and looks pretty good and clear.
should i change my oil at the 1000 mile mark anyway?

_________________
Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

Don't run past 1500 miles. Oil is cheap...

If it gets old and dirty, the acids can attack the O-rings, also dirty oil wears the fwd clutch plates which are the weakest part of the box (but the easiest to fix!)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.