Pete come by, I have a sheet of real SS you can hack up.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

in regards to the pictures "Grant took at MDU last year"
can i ask what people use on the firwall is that a small piece
of stainless steal or is it a mirror? i wanna do that to mine
when it comes time for engine bay paint

_________________

have you seen this thread dbr11k
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... highlight=

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

That is a sheet of 304 stainless, about 1.2mm thick from memory. I cut/drilled it using an 850 speedo housing as a template. It is mounted using the original screws. It is not polished, thats how it looks 'as rolled' and is good for keeping the heat from melting wires etc. I don't have a speedo anymore but I never used it anyway, the car only has two speeds, stop and oh s#$t!

Daniel

_________________
Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

Sweet! Thanks Kev... deal

_________________

Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

hay guys

just been filling through aus mini and found ur post.
i've been building a 1275 metro turbo.

ive made mine the same as standard(with turbo behind engine) and am almost ready to drive

just thought id drop a line to say hello, and complement you on ur work.

We need more turbo A-Series on here, tell your friends!

Daniel

_________________
Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

With such large power output figures, 150hp, are you planning to do anything with the drive line components? Or, will standard components suffice?

I would have thought at least a crosspin diff but what else?

i'd look at a stronger box with aftermarket parts (straight cut or sommit) or an A+ gearbox which is stronger

3 of us in adelaide that i know of have blown gearboxes with superchargers.

Its a rebuilt box, but stock (well, I lie, competition pin, etc) but basically stock

Gearboxes dont break because of the power... they generally break due to a faulty part or the way you drive.

Give me a stock standard 998 (bugger all HP) with a newly rebuilt box and I could break it... depends how you treat it.

I would love to go LSD, stronger box, etc... but for now, this is fine... and has been shown to work fine even with very strong motors.

Pete.

_________________

Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

I agree, if you drive a Mini like some people drive ricers you will break it, regardless- but used sensibly a stock box will handle 180HP.
Boostedmini ran a stocko Mini-K box in his turbo 1360? stroker for 5 years or so.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i have a rebuilt box, all new bearings, comp layshaft, rebuilt diff, comp diff pin

still couldnt cope, the gears themselves arent strong enough.

So how did you make it strong enough

over here we had tested the "competition diff pin", it's not superior to the normal factory part. latest finding is that the "steel competition baulk rings" are wearing much faster than standard Rover parts


please tell more, best with pics, as i have never seen the gears themself fail due to torque alone. the last gearset failing i know of was a straight cut with some "special hardening". the surface was much to hard and broke away like glass

_________________
Rover 214 atm ....

Bit of an armature question with the gears but can they be hardened or is this already done standard or what?

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.