Drifter,

The SR20 first came out as an SR20Di, which stood for 'D'ouble Overhead Camshafts and 'i'injection.

Then the DE whereby the 'E' stood for 'E'lectronic engine management......

'T' is obviously for Turbo.

The DE is not turbo ready, as specific compression ratio is rather high. The DET has lower compression, larger injectors, bigger rods and oil-cooled pistons.

"Highest Specific Output" means you take the kw the car produces, and divide it by the cc (cubic centimetres displacement), and this gives you specific power output per cc of displacement. The higher the figure, the more highly tuned and efficient the engine. In other words, it means the Neo engine is one ball-tearer of a motor.

The Neo engine has been around since about '97, so there should be quite a few available. I would get a N15 Jap Pulsar halfcut as you will need loom, ECU etc.

Seriously, you wont be dissapointed with a SR16VE engine!!

Cheers,
Tricky

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"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

cheers for clarifying that tricky,
i was having a look, and the sr16ve puts out 170hp, whereas the sr-20 de produces more torque but less hp compared to the sr16. i'm thinking since i'm not going to be able to drive it anyway under the p-plater laws, why not go with the det?, which produces upwards of 205 hp. only thing is, whats that law about the engine limit, isnt it something like 2.5 times the weight?

cheers,
robbie

_________________
'73 clubby s "cryo" - sold
Operation Evil Sesame Street!

There is also the vvt version of the Sr20de which produces around 147kw stock (the same as the aus spec S13 200sx Sr20det).
If torque is what you want you cant go past the SR20 replacement which is the QR20 and QR25(137kw) which is fitted to our X-trails, they seem to lug a 1500kg 4wd quite quickly and in a mini it would be a grunter..
Might be a bit tall and over the capacity limit though.

DOTARS Legislation reads:

2.5 times manufacturers Tare weight for forced induction
3.0 times manufacturers Tare weight for N/A.
This means max 1600cc for turbo/supercharged, or 2000cc for N/A.

My advice for what it's worth, do the SR16VE conversion first up - if you can handle that without any problems then turbo the engine later on down the track!

Cheers,
Tricky

_________________
"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

its gonna take its time, im going to do it over a few years, so as to get it perfect. but if that means max 1600cc for turbo, wouldnt that rule out the sr20det, as its 2L?

_________________
'73 clubby s "cryo" - sold
Operation Evil Sesame Street!

minidrifter focus on ur hsc first buddy then start talking about conversions .....and josh i suggested 4efte as a more sensible option but there seems to be no reasoning with him haha...have you considered how much this is gonna cost aswel?and once you get it done don't forget about insurance...17yr old on red ps = expensive insurance lol

anyway thats just a few of my thoughts

DANE

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finally own one

Absolutely, hence why we are trying to suggest the 1.6 litre alternative (doesn't rule out the SR20DE though)

Also, take Josh up on his offer for a test drive, you may decide after changing your underwear that the 4EFTE has more than enough power!

Just remember that advice is free, but whether you choose to listen to it will decide its value in the end.

Cheers,
Tricky

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"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

are you talking about the s14 200sx? there was never a s13 200sx..
late model jap rps13 (silvia and 180sx) had black top (vvt) sr20dets as do late model series 2 s14 200sx and s15 200sx's
here's a vid of a ford anglia with a sr20det
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOzjaolMU1U
i doubt you'll get more traction then him

and heres a dvd you may have seen
http://www.seriousbiz.com.au/product_in ... cts_id=131
it also has a guy with a sr20det anglia,also norm gowers vtec mini is in the same dvd, and its alot more sensible on the track then the anglia.
in the end mate go for gold, if its your dream then do it, but there will always be somebody faster then you, so go for the best blanced machine, power and handleing

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real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

yeh thanks for all the advice, and as dane said, hsc first then some more serious talk about it, but also dane, p-plates arent allowed to drive anything performance enhanced under the new laws, so i couldnt drive it on the road for another 2.5 years, so insurance wouldnt be a problem.
the sr-20de only puts out about 170hp, thats why i was thinking the det, however cant do that according to DOTARS, and there are better 4 cyl engines out there that produce more hp than the 170 the sr-20de puts out. thanks again, you've helped me see the light
cheers, robbie

_________________
'73 clubby s "cryo" - sold
Operation Evil Sesame Street!

ok, quick update on my thoughts. i've decided to give up on the sr-20det, and i'm going to go with a b16a2 engine.
thanks for all the advice.

_________________
'73 clubby s "cryo" - sold
Operation Evil Sesame Street!

BTW I know you've since changed your mind but I thought I'd add something.

You said above the SR-20DE being of about 170hp. That's probably the case for some RWD models but if you were to buy a SSS front cut (as it's a front wheel drive) I think you'd find that the engine only makes around 140hp. About 5 hp more than a stock 4EFTE.

Now you say you're going B16, well I think that's a good idea Honda's are good but have you thought of a FWD 4AGE Toyota 20 valve?

_________________
1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

a far more sensible and inexpensive idea would be to try the CG13de

from the nissan march/micra..

60kw and not adverse to a bit of turbocharging either...

it's relatively cheap and somewhat available...

gzevan was looking at attaching the n12 pulsar gearbox which made the whole thing not much bigger than the a series...

it's also looks like a baby sr20

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yeh i read that the 4-age 20 valve puts out about 150-160 hp, whereas the b16a2 can put out up to 185 hp.

i just want an engine that will put out as much hp as possible.

_________________
'73 clubby s "cryo" - sold
Operation Evil Sesame Street!

And they wonder why P Platers have so many accidents and are banned from driving high powered cars. You just don't know when to stop.

You want to get into racing? well remember that the best drivers started off in the slow underpowered cars learning car control and moved up progressively. You learn nothing going for the fastest thing available on 4 wheels.

A mini with 150HPatw is hardly much slower than one with 250HP you just cant get the power to the ground.

Have you ever driven any of these engines? stop quoting popular jap motors and looking at outright HP figures. There is alot more to it than that, like capacity, weight, power delivery, outright power, torque, gearing, not to mention everything you need to take into consideration when cramming it into a mini.

A mini is a mini. Think about the overall balance of the car, the weight you're adding by going big and powerfull the car will be no fun to drive. You need to think of the end product.

IMO conversions are a waste of money if all you're looking for is speed. There are plenty of better ways to go faster. FWD certainly isn't the start.

Take a step back from your time that you're bored during these holidays and actually make a plan, think about everything write it down and then ask sensible questions. Oh and Please listen to the guys on here, they know what they are talking about. Tricky is pointing you in the right direction with that SR16 if you ask me.

Everyone is here to help and support, but right now your just wasting everyones time by asking a million and one questions. You've changed your mind in the last two days god knows how many times. I know your enthusiastic and exited, but i've seen enough people pour so much excitement into a conversion that's not gonna happen. slow and steady wins the race.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

I think it should be noted that Mini's were not designed to have 150hp, not even 100hp.

Things can go a bit weird with excessive hp, which is what I'm soon going to find out. But I'll be starting at stock and slowly working my way up from there.

With excessive hp Mini's can twist and the suspension can misalign, torque steer also can be an issue. Which all means your Mini will fly all around the road and go crazy. At least with a small bosted engine that power can be controlled, With a big turbo engine you have a choice big power, or even bigger power. The 4EFTE is great in that regard. Leave the boost down low, and the car behaves fine, turn the boost up and she goes hard.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T