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PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:14 pm 
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998cc
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$$ = Performance and less work afterwards

thats the way i see it so im not gonna skimp on bits and pieces, i only wanna have this thing pulled apart completely once lol if its possible

gearbox... suggestions? ... like i said i really have no idea so as much help as possible and suggestions are very very much appreciated.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:33 pm 
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sociallydisabled wrote:
its a 1275 from an 1100s so no smog head. whats a good bore size?

Well unless you're building a monster I'd just bore it to next size- 1310, or 1330.
If you want more don't go past 1360 (73mm), you then have 1 bore job left for later (1380cc).

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:39 pm 
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998cc
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no dramas, and do you guys think i should get it done by a mini guy or my families mechanic? he seems to know what hes talking about ... in the end its just an engine right?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:43 pm 
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1100S is what I'm also doing but I am still ...once I get a Chank..still getting it Crack tested.
What I wil be doing
Crakc test the Crank and get it cleaned up.
RE13 (I will be, I'm sold on it) or suitable
Block only to the next size ...Bored or Honed.
and get the head looked at..it realy does depend on what you have.
All New Bearings and Gaskets and oil pump

Gear box..I would sldo get looked at (put $1000) aside atleast...you want this perfect as its your connection to your motor and road :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:47 pm 
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998cc
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too true, id like to know how you go with things...and rough prices...and i need to organise finace for it to go ahead. are you using a mini mechanic?

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 12:50 am 
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ET 13.457 seconds , OH YEAH !!!!
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I would have a chat to Graham Russell and tell him what you want and he will point you in the right direction.

Alternatively Greig at Mini Classic would rebuild it faster and he gets Graham to do all the machining.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 4:19 pm 
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I bought a Kent "race cam" to go in my 1275... I plan to go 1380 (already got the pistons and rings)
This should give me a bit of get up and go?
What concerns me is the gearbox holding together... rebuild? Cost?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 4:33 pm 
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I would talk to GR about the cam - probably sell the Kent. There has been a lot of progress over the years in cam development and the cam is the key defining characteristic in the A-series.

1380 can give you some get up and go if built with the right parts, but it is not a given. I have seen too many 1360 etc motors that my hot 1100 isn't far off.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 2:33 pm 
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848cc
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Sorry to jump in.

I have an 1100S block, but unsure what kind of head, how can i find out?
All i know is the pollution holes have been blocked with bolts that have had the bolt heads chopped off. And are any of the smog heads any good or should i just consider finding a non smog head.

TA :oops:
sorry once again for crossing your thread,
this subject is inline with what im after also.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 2:59 pm 
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Toasted wrote:
Sorry to jump in.

I have an 1100S block, but unsure what kind of head, how can i find out?
All i know is the pollution holes have been blocked with bolts that have had the bolt heads chopped off. And are any of the smog heads any good or should i just consider finding a non smog head.

TA :oops:
sorry once again for crossing your thread,
this subject is inline with what im after also.

Keep that 12G1316 smog head, they are as good as or better than a 12G940 once modified.
The major restriction in them is around the exhaust's valve bosses, an hour or so with a die grinder in there soon fixes that.
Then put Mk2 1275S inlet valves in, and it's just as good as one of those.
I run 4 modified 1275 heads, 3 of em are the same type as yours. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 3:16 pm 
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848cc
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How do i know it is for sure a 12G1316 head, is it possible that another head may have been used? (engine still in car)

Who would you suggest do the head work?

And now for an off track question. i am thinking of supercharge but as sociallydisabled has mentioned it will all come down to cost and weather it has to pass engineers.

TIA


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 3:22 pm 
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Postally Verbose
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Take the rocker cover off and look for the numbers cast on the head . If it is a 1275 head and has the pollution ports on the front then it is most likely a 12G1316 , don't know for certain if other countries had a similar head with a different casting number but I doubt it .

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 5:22 pm 
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All the 1275 heads with 4 smog (air) ports on front are a 12G1316.
Number is cast on top of head, under the rocker shaft in the middle.
USA got them too (in Austin America).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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