Thanks for the info JC.

I wasnt aware that the alloy adaptor thingo was actually an add on. What would happen to the oil feeder lines going to the turbo if this relocator thingo was removed?

I wouldnt mid getting a oil relocator kit, just to make th engine bay a bit neater. etc but what would I have to do to the oil lines that run to the turbo?

What filter are you guys running anyway?

Another question.. has anyone had any trouble with excessive movement of the rubber enginer mounts. With all these tight clearances, I was thinking of injecting urethance to the crevices to stiffen them up.. ahy experiences with this? anyone>

Thanks again to Ben (92) who was kind enough to show his mean lookin machine and to take me for a spin around the block good thing I went to the toilet before hand! yikes.. cant wait to have my mini on the road!!


Cheers guys

With the oil filter i ordered a new nipple from a 4efe, came all the way from Japan and cost $6. Pirtek could not help in this department?? Then i made an aluminium donut - a f3mm flat plate which was 70mm round and had a 30mm hole in it (check dimensions b4 making). Then i used silastic to fit the plate to the block and carefully screwed the oil filter on. After it was dry you can take the oil filter off and no probs and no leaks. Oil lines for the turbo are fedd from an adaptor located at the oil pressure switch.

Heres a photo prior to installing the oil filter, the main concern is to fill / cover the holes from the bolts that held the factory relocator in place.



As far a mounts go i burnt my rubber out and poured urethane in its place- so far so good.

Dan

where did you get the urethane from? Was it in tube form or 2 part mixture

From what i've been reading, most people seem to be using something called Window weld by 3M. I dont know if I can get it here. What hardness did you choose?


Cheers mate

Guys,

Does anyone know $40 is too much for a TRD oil filter?

What filters are you guys running?

Decided to keep the original housing for the oil filter so will have to go for original size item:

I've been running the vacuum tubes around the car for the solenoids etc and came across one problem:

There was a piece of steel tubing attached to the back of the intake manifold which basically has 3 ports. The idle control solenoid was connected to one end. The other end was near the throttle valve and there was one outlet in the middle.. I dont know where this goes. Any help?

Cheers

Will post some pictures soon. Unfortunately when I get home its dark and pictures with flash turn out crap.

Fellas,

Can anyone help with my question about the piece of steel tubing with 3 outlets?

Also another question: What kind of LSDs are any of you running. I know Ben is running a TRD unit. Has anyone had any experiences with CUSCO LSDs?.


What is a good price for a 1 way cusco unit?. There is one on ebay going for what looks like a decent price.

Also timing belts. Everyone seems to be changing belts when they take out the engine.. I am not sure whether mine has been changed. The sticker on the timing belt cover says 82,XXX kms and my odometer has 88,XXX kms. Does that meant it was changed at 82,xxx kms? or is it overdue?
Has anyone fitted a gates timing belt before? how much did you pay for it?

Sorry for all the questions guys

Cheers

pubs

Hi guys,

The engine is in for the final time ( I hope ) Got the lear levers, suspension, fuel tubing and return line sorted out.
Made new brake lines from the front.
Managed to keep the brake proportioning valve pretty much in the same place which meant I could use the brake line coming from the back without too much mods.

Hooked up the clutch master to the slave.. had to re position the rubber hose but no biggie. I guess now its on to the wiring!

Which brings to my question...

What have you guys done for the radiator? I dont want to get something that spans the entire width of the front grille ( probably wont fit because of the turbo sticking out).


I was looking a radiator from a 94ish Barina which looks very similar to the mini radiator. Any thoughts of comments?


Cheers

pubs

Check out the updated pics :

http://picasaweb.google.com/pubudug

Updated pics!





Decided to try out the battery being in the front since there was so much space available on top of the gear box



Things left to do:

hook up the battery
Hook up the lights and sort out the rear loom
drive shafts
exhaust

and i'll be hopefully running!!

Question: Do you guys know of a good place to get mandrel bends from? I need pre formed pieces ( 3 x 45 degrees and 1 x 90 degrees)

Any help would be appreciated

Cheers

Local exhaust place.

Mate - she looks great! And if i'm not mistaken, that is the EXACT same colour as Tony's mini. He will indeed be shitty.

_________________
But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

WHAT!!!! Battery up the front!! You clubby guys have it easy!

Looking good! I'd say pretty much any exhaust place could make up some bends for you. Wouldn't say there would be much difference.

Just with the battery up the front, was the original idea to put it at the back for space reasons or was it more to evenly distribute the weight a bit more?

Pubudug,

Regarding the tubes out of the plenum possible this was for the water feed to the steering box. Mine had two leads running down to the steeringbox. Don't quote me but I think it was to keep this warm as it can get effing cold in Japland hence the fairly over the HVAC system.

As for your timing belt take off the top cover and have a look. Pull on it a bit and if it seems spongy or looks like it has done 88K kms change it, while it is believed that the 4EFTE runs a non interference head breaking a timing belt is still not a great situation especially if you are in timbuktu.

As for diffs I was looking at a Quaife unit and that was $1200...

Cheers

Matt

_________________
225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

/thread hijack

Matt where did you get quoted $1200 for the Quaife ATB Helical?

I asked the importer (New Zealand) and they wanted $1450 + $150 or $290 Shipping depending if i go direct or via NZ.

Even in NZ$ that's AU$1500 landed...

_________________

Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

I just bought a TRD for $630 (second hand obviously)

_________________
But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

i'd have the battery at the back to help with weight distribution

Hey Pubudu!

Where'd you get that fancy radiator from? And approx how much, if you don't mind?

Where abouts in Adelaide do you live?

After I pay for some stuff to my Mini (not 4EFTE project) I'm going to get my subframe made for the Clubby, so yeah it'll be fun to read through this as your quite a few steps ahead of me!

Good luck, and that should make 3 Starlet Mini's legal in SA when yours then mines done (need to get some doosh to get moving!), I think....awesome.

_________________
1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

So i saw

_________________

Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484