How high is that thing off the ground!!!

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

That car is a long way off the ground. It is also a later model mini with the internal door hinges, the front guards are a little different. Not sure if they are bigger or what ever but they are a different shape. I think that car would look a whole lot better with differnt style of wheels

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If you want more inches, stroke it
Life's a garden.... Dig It!
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20746

I bet you that blue car does not have a Mini subframe under the back. There is no way wheels that large would clear the trailing arm brackets.

BTW: Those wheels do look crap on it.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

Hey Josh, tell us what you really think!!

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"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

no probs with speed bumps there... looks alright the back would look cooler if it was a bit lower, but good job

yeah apparently the rear suspension and arms are from another car.. cant remember which one.. Looking at his album, I dont think it took a lot of work to get the gear in the back in. Yeah the car does seem quite high off the ground. I've seen other conversions where the guys cut the back inner wheel arches off and weld in bigger ones! so that the shock top mount etc is lifted up and the car can be lowered quite a bit. Looks very neat i must say.. I'll try'n find a pic.

I actually don't mind that blue car...

the guards are the same Dan, thats why we can still get guards for our roundies

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Sportspack ones were just precut and had a reduced rack.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Unless you make some fairly radical changes to the suspension yours will sit that high. When the suspension is fully compressed (fully sik) there is no way you can decrease the distance between the outer most point of the tyre and the centre of the wheel. You will need to 'move' the hub further upwards into the body. You could hack the bump stops off and fit some high lows but you would then need to make some room in the wheel well for the bigger wheel. I suspect you might also significantly reduce you suspension travel by doing this excercise.

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Yeah, I think you're right. I'm running 12 rims with 50 series tyres on mine and its quite abit lowered.. the top and bottom arms seem to lifted a bit... Might not be worth the trouble just for the look if thats what 15" wheels are only good for..

Which brings to my other question.. would 15" tyres give you better traction due to increased contract patch area?

It will make it harder for your tires to spin yes. Whether that is as a result of the increase rotational mass is another question.....

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Ok so maby i didnt word it right... The differnces are where the quarter panel and the door sill (i guess) meet where the seam welds are. I know what i meant anyways

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If you want more inches, stroke it
Life's a garden.... Dig It!
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20746

Guys,

The engine is finally in! Over weekend I managed to sand off the body filler on the engine bay, whacked a coat of paint ( temporary measure) and in went the frame and the engine. I must say putting the engine and taking it out is becoming easier every time I do it now. The first time I did it I thought it wasnt going to go in period!

One problem: The passenger side driveshaft bit from the diff is a wee bit too close to the frame. The passenger side mount needs a bit of adjustment

Anyway.. Looks like my oil filter JUST clears the side of the body.. I will probably have to make a small indent on the body panel so there will beapprox 10 mm clearance to compensate for movement of engine during operation etc.

What kind of oil filter are you guys running at the moment? Saw this one in Ebay, a TRD one. Is this a good price?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... &rd=1&rd=1





Cheers

Guys,

The engine is finally in! Over weekend I managed to sand off the body filler on the engine bay, whacked a coat of paint ( temporary measure) and in went the frame and the engine. I must say putting the engine and taking it out is becoming easier every time I do it now. The first time I did it I thought it wasnt going to go in period!

One problem: The passenger side driveshaft bit from the diff is a wee bit too close to the frame. The passenger side mount needs a bit of adjustment

Anyway.. Looks like my oil filter JUST clears the side of the body.. I will probably have to make a small indent on the body panel so there will beapprox 10 mm clearance to compensate for movement of engine during operation etc.

What kind of oil filter are you guys running at the moment? Saw this one in Ebay, a TRD one. Is this a good price?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... &rd=1&rd=1





Cheers

You can get an oil filter relocation kit out of the US for about $100 (landed). This kit allows you to first and foremost, remote locate the filter but it also allows the fitment of a much bigger filter.

I can't see photos posted on this site at work so don't know if you're going roundnose or clubman but... if you are going clubman and you are going to fit a bigger turbo you will need a new manifold. If you fit a new manifold you can then get rid of the factory oil filter relocator and fit the oil filter directly to the block. Minimetoy fitted a non factory exhaust manifold to his Morris which aforeded him enough room to fit the oil filer directly to the block.

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.