MIght be obvious, but the early remote boxes look damn simular to the miki k/S ones but have no syncro on first, these are no good...

G

Look inside at the straight cut first gear on the cluster- if it's in constant mesh with 1st gear on the mainshaft, it's a 4 synchro.
If there are Hardy Spicer drive flanges on the diff too, it's probably an S...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Just dragging this one up from the archieves because several mentioned that they would like to follow the progress of this project.

Doc - I have managed to aquire a very straight 1969 Morris 1100S manual sedan. In amazingly complete condition. We have a long known history on the vehicle [going back over the past 22 years] We have a paper trail on it going back to purchase as a new vehicle [one owner]


The 1275 engine runs like a dream which is not too surprising as it has only 34804 original Miles on the clock. Only problem we have at the moment is a seized clutch most likely from being sitting in an open carport for the last 11 years after the previous owner passed away. [This one was littlerally the little old lady story]

Plan:
The donor is being pulled from the Morrie on the first weekend after new year and because of it's almost pristine state, we are not going to play with the internals too much at this point but just drop her in and run it for a while and assess it from there.

So it is an external cleanup and paint job on the engine
Drop in the Nissan dizzy conversion
New coil
Put a new clutch through it
Drop it into Donkey 2 or three weeks later.

In the mean time... I intend to extract the existing motor early while my engine man is doing his thing, and tackle my engine bay. Just a general cleanup, scrape back the rust and give it a quick lick of paint. This one will not be a showroom finish job, that comes later - the idea here is just to tidy it up a little and arrest any further deterioration.

My only concern at the mo is the gearbox on the donor. I hear that the 1100S box was less than desirable, but I am also getting info that this was only on the earlier cars and that the late model ones [like my donor car] had a better setup. All I know for sure at the moment is that it is a 4 speed manual remote box. I suppose time will tell how we go with it. If all else fails, I could always just order in a Jack Knight 5 speed straight cut crash box LOL [yeah right! ]

Edit: Added - Is it really impossible to use the disk brakes that come on it???????? Seams such a waist to be that close to a disk setup and not be able to use it!

Comments or advice always welcome
Cheers Dat

All the 1100S as far as I know (I owned one) had a 3 synchro box with WIDE ratios and a short diff ratio. So on 10" wheels it will scream its nuts off.
I would not bother rebuilding one of those boxes for a Mini these days, the 4 synchro Mini-K, Mk2 S and rodchange ones are stronger and ratios are better.

If you are going to keep the box though and want another 1100S box to rat for parts, PM me... it's Xmas after all..

re the 1100S brakes- PM bnicho- I believe they can be modded to fit a Moke, so maybe..

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hmm - the Morrie is sitting on 12" rims stock - I wouldn't have thought the size difference would be that great. But what about uprating to 12's on the Van? Would that sort out the gearking ratio? - Our best assessment at the moment is that the box is in good nick. it has done bugger all work in it's short milage history.

Thanks for the offer of parts - I'll give you a yell if there are any probs.

Thanks Dat

how does everyone have an "engine man"
i want one.
for building my A+

Not what you know Mike

Another advantage of being over the hill - had a chance to meet a few more contacts.

Engine man You just have to be lucky or have the Money (case of Beer)


The engine is it still sitting with Oil...
if you are not going to touch it and have no intentiuon at this stage as Stated Why Ask...Chuck it in and see how it goes as you originaly planed
Gear Box Sitting in Oil hopefully with low Millage Should be fine on 12's will be better than tens if it would scream it head off on ten's
Chuck her in and let us know
Sounds like a good day to me

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Yes, the Morrie sat on 12" wheels but they were not low profile tyres like we fit to 12" Mini wheels. They wer 6.20?x12 crossplys...
And the 12" wheels have a heap of inset. Problem with the brakes really though is the swivel hubs/balljoints mounting points are way different!
As I said PM bnicho, there are ways to use the calipers, CVs etc I forget the details.
There was a thread in mods a while back.

I think the diff was a 4.1? Or was it 4.26.... can't remember.
Anyhow it's too short for a Mini, unless you are going tree climbing.
3.44 is nice behind a 1275..

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

LOL Tree climbing - now there's and interesting concept!

(WhoDat - Found this thread!)

The Morris 1100S runs higher profile tyres than a Mini on 12" rims. If you fit the same size tyres to a Mini they foul on the rear radius arm and front inner guards. 13" Mokes have a longer rear arm and more space in the front guards to fix this.

You could just change the diff ratio.

I have a soft spot for these old Morries. Have you considered keeping it intact if the body is in good nick? They are a surprisingly nice car to drive and getting rare. A good one goes for $2,500-3,000 with restored examples reaching as high as $6,000

_________________
Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

I agree that they're cool cars in their own right.

My mate has an Austin 1800... they marketed it as "the lounge room" I think. LOL its a cracker.

dewey

_________________
dwightgunning.com

The motor is a going concern sitting in the Morrie at the moment. We are firing her up weekly at the moment to keep her ticking over. Only needed a set of points and an oil change to get her firing first time without fail. You can check out the movie of the motor running ----> Here

Yep the box is going to need some mods either way. I need that centre pickup put in so will do some work in that area when we get to that bit. it's really all the gear ratio options that have me confused. Have been looking at all the supply sources and they quote the gear stats and final drive figures etc but I can't figure out what this means.

Can you help out a poor geek and tell me which end of the range is good confortable highway gearing and the other being tree climbing gears?

The issue with this box may be sorted with just a diff ratio change but I suspect as per the original advice I'm still on the lookout for a K box.

Bnicho - As nice as the donor car is, I'm not interested in keeping it as a 1100S. [I'm into the mini Van] We looked at on-selling it to someone who would appreciate it. It is a matching numbers, original low milage with a straight and relatively rust free body. but the bottom line is we can't seam to find anyone interested in buying it for 500 let alone the figures your talking.

1275 in a Mini on the road, I'd go a 3.44 or a 3.647. I have one of each in our cars now...
In the 1100S car, I'd either leave what's there or fit a 3.765.

3.765 was used in 850, & Mini Deluxe... too low geared these days for a Mini, except for competition.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

OK doc - the final drive ratio you suggest seams to be middle of the road of what's available. My problem is I don't know which end of the available ratios represent highway gearing? Is it the higher the final drive ratio number [eg 3.105 or 3.937] the higher the road speed for a given engine rev? [this seams like the logical answer to me but not sure]