It would be crap with standard radiator.

I was more refering to little front heater cores and such.

I run what I belive ALL mini owners should run. UK 2 Core, oil cooler, thermofan, expansion tank (this is what sueprcharged mini owners seem to skip on although it's very important!). Nothing more nothing less. And it's what I ran before I changed to charger.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

I removed a heater core today from a leyland to use with my car, its lovely and compact and should do a good job getting rid of heat and increasing the cooling system capacity.

i've been thinking of mounting a fan onto it somehow, the in cabin heater always did a great job of keeping the temp down on my less well endowed minis.

i also got my hands on a factory overflow tank to use in my mini but i'll have to think about where i can fit it as space is at a premium.

on my old minis when i had no money i just used a coke bottle wedged in next to the wiper motor.

How'd the coke bottle help?

That's a catch tank, just catchs overflow. Expansion tank is pressurised. I got the biggest stock one I could find, from a Range Rover.

I have a heater core, it's the same as a Morris 1100 one, but twice as long. It is a last resort, if temp was an issue.

My mini is my only car, it's driven rain or shine, and in any temperature, with the old radiator I had some scares on 44 degree days, but the new stuff no problems. Hey if things get bad I'll turn the heater on (with the current cooling setup the heater no longer works, car doesn't get hot enough, just blows normal temp air, I miss a nice heater.... )

IMO if you have a good system (as I have stated above) there are more important thing to worry about when boosting. Eg. fuel/Air mixture. And part throttle lean out issues.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

You have to match the cam with the blower. If the blower runs out of puff at 6krpm then no point running much of a cam. Bin the 649, vizard wrote that book in 71, there are heaps better profiles out now.

Exhaust porting and Zoorst should be as good if not better than a race NA. On a supercharged engine I'd be tempted to run longer exhaust duration on the cam than the inlet.

If you think you cooling system is ok then take it on track and see what heat soak does!!

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

When I was saying that I meant to open them up just the little bit that would be done by smoothing them to remove the roughness from the casting. I didn't mean to open them up as far as you can go without hitting any water galleries.

Personally I think it would be stupid to waste most of your time porting the inlet tracks as they have pressure in them forcing the air and fuel in whereas the exhaust ports don't have a vacuum to help suck the mixture out.

I should make my self clearer in the future - do not make the exhaust ports a big as you can (as has already been stated this will slow down air flow), only open them up as much as you need to to smooth them out so that the mixture can flow faster.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

i disagree, even with boost the inlet should be as effectiv as possible. if you have an ineffectiv port you have to pump up the boost to get the same amount of mixture into the engine. with a well ported inlet you get the same power with less boost

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Rover 214 atm ....

I didn't mean leave the inlet all together I said I think it would be stupid to waste most of your time doing that - i.e. if you spent most of your time doing the inlet and hardly any on the exhaust ports.

I understand where your coming from but I was assuming that most people are on a budget here (well I am anyway). If, on that budget I only allocated for $500 on the head I would tell the guy doing the head to do a 60/40 split (spend 60% of his time on the exhaust and 40% on the inlet).

Of course that doesn't matter if you are grinding your own head.

My 2c

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

i've got a 1.5 litre coke bottle down by the clutch housing...

not wedged... just resting there...

when it fills up, i just tip it back in... works a treat..

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Get yourself a recovery type radiator cap and you wont even have to tip the water back in. . .it'll do it all by itself. . .now that's technology

can you get one for a coke bottle?

i used to poke a hole in the lid to poke the overflow hose through

You only need one for the radiator - just make sure the overflow tube from the rad to the bottle stays under the level of the coolant (in the bottle). the bottle is just a reservior for the rad to draw from. . . .it simply makes sure the rad it full all the time with no air gap at the top. . .

Explained here:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system7.htm

The good old brass expansion tank, as seen on Mokes, Range Rovers, Rover SD1s, old Land Rovers, and probably much more, also as seen on my car!

My car came with an ugly plastic expansion tank...yuck!

Polished brass now!

It is a good idea, it effectively extends the top of the radiator, creating more coolant capacity and giving room for thhe coolant to 'expand' rather than over flow, of course if you fill the expansion tank up to the top, it too will overflow, but still with a ful radiator. I noticed at MATM last year, many mini people go without one (even high performance minis ) , it's protection, from losing all your coolant on a hot day!

Avaliable from a British car at U-pull it, 7 days a week! For about 20 bucks!

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

hey people soz been gone but my net has been playing up real bad with the rain so i havent been able to connect.(in goulburn we kinda stand outside watching the rain haha) but also the dial up woes :S

ok umm yeh what i was thinking of doing was getting the head slightly ported, bigger valves, upgraded double valve springs, some roller rockers if i can find some(also some lightened push rods as the ones i got with the engine are too small indicating from an 1100 or 998 prob) ill be running a decompression plate.

also i am currently running a 13 row oil cooler but have been thinking of upgrading it to a 16 row maybe even a 19..

my gearbox better hold it cause it is a race spec remote change with straight cut gears with lsd and upgraded synchro's and bearings etc with 3.44 diff but i also have a 4.11 (all brand new never been ran yet either)

cam i will replace it with a re-13t if i can get one and keep the 649(will come in handy for sure) or maybe someone will want to swap for a excellent cond one??

umm ign. most likely be doin a swap of my mk2 cooper s for a electronic setup.

cooling.. i have got the blue silicon radiator hoses and will either be getting a upgraded 2 core or 4 core.. i was told to run 2 core in the round nose and a 4 in the clubman but yer..
also i have a plastic exp. tank at the moment but is being replaced with a chrome one that i have sitting next to me as i type now lol

as i said i am spending alot of money on this but i am also trying to avoid 'wasting' money so yeh..

this is a basic engine\gbox spec

fully rebuilt 1310 cooper s short motor. Cooper S 1310
short motor, 40 thou dished forged hepolite pistons,
40 thou under big and small ends freshly ground and
hardened (nitrided) crank, strengthened centre cap,
new bearings, lightened balanced con rods, new hi flow
oil pump, set of lightened and balanced pushrods.
649 cam, converted to a cam belt drive(, Cooper S distributor, lightened
balanced flywheel.
head - std 12g940 with cooper s valves but will be redone very soon

fully rebuilt gearbox. Lots of work done. It has
“the works”: Mini Mk1\2 remote change gearbox, three
synchro, straight cut, close ratio, LSD - limited slip
(off set pin) diff, 3.44:1 and 4:1 diff ratios (comes
separate), central oil pick up, rebuilt with all new
bearings and seals, Cooper S steel Hardie Spicer drive
shafts

also bought set of 4 spot callipers and vented disk setup with chrome brake booster to stop me

just sitting there waiting for some parts to be found so i can finish pulling my old one out for the upgrade..