The biggest issue is the breathing.
What intake manifold do you have on it?
You have a 295, ok... but the intake manifold?
Also, some Perry's work great, others dont... maybe new pipes will help.

If I was in your shoes, I would be looking down the head porting + intake manifold + header/exhaust route next.
At the same time, while doing that, get the lift measured and then decide if higher lift rockers are going to do anything except look nice and waste your $

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

The 731 was not a bad cam in it's day but suffers from low lift, only 0.252" at the lobe.
It's only .320" at the valves with stock rockers , about the same as a stocko Cooper S has.
By comparison an RE13 has about 0.290" at the lobe, giving 0.360" at the valves with stock rockers.

If using the 731, a set of 1.5 rockers would help lift. But it's much cheaper to rip it out, throw an RE13 in, and keep your stock rockers.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

What would you expect to pay for an RE13? I've got my eye on a set of basically brand new MS 1.5:1 rockers, asking $200.

(I'm really only speculating about the 731 cam, I have a vague memory that the guy I bought the car from over 10 years ago said something about it being a 270 degree cam which I didn't understand at the time.. and according to Vizard the 731 is the closest.. plus, it's really lumpy at idle which lends credence. Is there a way to measure the cam profile without removing it from the car?)

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

The intake is I believe off an MG Midget.. I don't remember what the casting number is (the car's currently in Brisbane, so I can't just go have a look ) I got a busted alloy manifold with the carbs which came from an 'S' I think, and the one I have is mostly identical, with the exception that it has more vacuum taps (now plugged) on the balance tube.



Yeah, the extractors are showing lotsa rust these days, so I'll probably ditch them for a set of stainless LCB's and get the head seen to. Are there better manifold choices these days other than the 'S' one?

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Absolutely. I love the maniflow LCB's myself. Cast manifold ends, nice construction, right price....

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I probably cannot be objective since I have a GR manifold and it works better than any other tried on my motor.
Its an RE7 (7" intake) but you might have trouble fitting it... might need firewall mods.

Kev, any suggestions apart from RE7 ?

Pete.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

I also run a 1098 which is +60 with a RE13.
It has a 202 Head which has been Toickled and Shaved to the Bone
I use a HIF44 with a ? Pommy Inlet Manifiold
& a Perry Outlet Manifold with a 1 3/4 to a single Muffler
I also use a Pulsar Dizzy.

I'm knocking on the door of 50hp at the wheels on the same Dyno as we do on our 05 May Dyno Day in Sydney

Hay its no rocket but it goes well for the Wifes Daily Drive.
We had a 731 and it was Okay but Love the RE13

Regarding to the 1.5's..yer I have considered but its all about the Tunning.
I'm lead to beleave...that Rockers do wear and it maybe good if you can get a acurate to gget the present tappets to open and close at the correct time. Some rockers maybe worn more than the others. Also what are your tapets set at. I have mine presently at 19 (Last Dyno Day) and I'm going to set them back to 14 or 15thou and expect to hit the 50 on the 05th

Bugger also forgot to say...you have a 295 Head...some time they can have to much meat on them so your compression could be to low

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Going price for an RE13 is probably around $130 + GST, express post is $10.
Ring Graham and ask, to be sure. (02) 9630 2195.
It will be better all the way up than a 731, even if that has 1.5 rockers.
Yes I've used both.

Cheaper than a set of 1.5 rockers, even at $200, which is cheap.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Not so sure about that, given the motor suffers a little from run-on, especially when hot and/or idling too high. /me thinks that points to a higher compression ratio, rather than lower.. but that said, I haven't put a compression tester on it for years, so who knows.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Thanks for the details.. maybe I'll do both when I finally get the car back. Picked up the rockers either way, I figured $200 was a good price and I can always use them on a big bore sometime in the future if they don't work on the 1100

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

That price is to regrind a near stock cam that you send him.
If you wanted one ground on a new billet, it will be lots more.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Just buy the regular maniflow medium bore LCBs or even the milleniums look ok too. Don't bother about Stainless Steel > that will cost you near double...

Better still, ask graham about his Supa Pipes while you are getting your RE13 ground...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K