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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:50 am 
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998cc
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Location: Bundaberg, QLD
Wow just Read this thread Brad, Your car is awsome!

I'll go for a ride anytime you say... Geeee I'll take a day off work to get a ride on 12psi.... Hmmmm So we say stuff the 8-port 7 go stright for starlet power?

i really need to decide... I think so much about the options its making me sick...

Smiles

Baracade


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2004 10:04 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Baracade wrote:
Wow just Read this thread Brad, Your car is awsome!

I'll go for a ride anytime you say... Geeee I'll take a day off work to get a ride on 12psi.... Hmmmm So we say stuff the 8-port 7 go stright for starlet power?

i really need to decide... I think so much about the options its making me sick...

Smiles

Baracade


Yeah, Dean, Brad's got it nailed!
Why re-invent the wheel.. :lol:

Hmmm... wonder what an acid dipped Starlet would weigh- saves a lot of work! :P

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2004 11:16 am 
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1275cc
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Location: Wollongong
dean the more you think about it the better. You will make the better desicion than instead of doing something rash. You need to work out what you really want, a full race car that has to be trailored everywhere and raced 6-7 times a year (which would be cool if i had any racing talent) or a street car for weekends, or a daily driver.

I think you could call mine a weekend warrior but can be used everyday if need be (need to put a good alarm in it).

Ill drop around next week and take you for a spin in it with a bit more boost than last time and see what you think. If you want to stay with A series mate i think for a daily driver you could go an 8 port 1380 and make it reliable (if it can be). Not sure if it will handle 170hp all day.

With a conversion like mine what ever you think it will cost to build i say DOUBLE it, trust me all the little things add up and you wont see much change from 15 grand on the rd.

Id love to make a stripped out race mini with 4efte power, but i just dont have the money behind me, plus not sure what category it would go in, hence why i just built a street car that is capable of track duties like wakefield, wsid etc.

Plus my mini will have to be my daily hack once i sell my franchise.

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2004 5:52 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Brisbane
Brad,

Bit the bullet last night. Had a few Suzuki motors fall through. Thought "i've already got the starlet gear", "nobody has put it in a roundnose yet", "f@ck it, I'll give it a go". So, SMS'ed that bloke about those links you posted for starlet motor and box. Looks like its a done deal, got to speak to him tonight.

What do you think would cause (additoinal) issues with mounting 4EFTE into the roundnose? I've acutally got a couple of inlet manifolds sitting there and I reckon you could cut a few up, change the depth and angles of the thing to create some room back there, without compromsing power too much. Note - This turbo and head I got produced 250.1 hp at the flywheel.

Is it the manifold the creates the issue back there or engine/gearbox fouling stuff? I think the manifold issue could be overcome by fitting an incabin master cyclinders. I have one a photo from Andy that is making me feel confident. Somebody want to host a pic?

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2004 6:21 pm 
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1275cc
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on my mini the closest thing to the firewall is the inlet manifold (i took a 5mm notch out to clear it), the engine has plenty of room of the firewall, but the gearbox only has about 30mm. To get the engine further back you could always mount it on a slight angle, but that would make the turbo go further forward out the grill.

You could also have problems with the width of the engine, unless you go full flip front with no inner wings, would give enough room for alternator and radiator too.

The mastes arnt a problem as you can turn them around to clear, but if you have to cut the firewall to fit it, then the masters will have to be moved inside. If i was to do a round nose i think id go and cut the front off, tack weld a frame with the engine it and then try to mount the original panels around it. You may get away with just spacing the grill out 40-50mm :shock:

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2004 6:26 pm 
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oh and i forgot the water pump pulley only has 10mm clearance of the rear subframe, the pic i put up of andys roundie does not have a subframe fitted, that how he got it to sit so far back!

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:08 pm 
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Jeez John you don't stuff around.

I can host a pic if you want.

It sure would be a shame to wreck that nice paint by having to do what Brad suggests with the flip front.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:45 pm 
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13secmini wrote:
oh and i forgot the water pump pulley only has 10mm clearance of the rear subframe, the pic i put up of andys roundie does not have a subframe fitted, that how he got it to sit so far back!


Looks like it's back to Suzuki then. Faaaaark this is giving me the sh!ts!!

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:46 pm 
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Zizzle wrote:
Jeez John you don't stuff around.

I can host a pic if you want.

It sure would be a shame to wreck that nice paint by having to do what Brad suggests with the flip front.


My thoughts exactly!!!!

Trust you made it home safe. :wink:

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:46 pm 
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Whitestriped63 wrote:
13secmini wrote:
oh and i forgot the water pump pulley only has 10mm clearance of the rear subframe, the pic i put up of andys roundie does not have a subframe fitted, that how he got it to sit so far back!


Looks like it's back to Suzuki then. Faaaaark this is giving me the sh!ts!!


I'd bin the water pump then, fit an electric one. 8)

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2004 8:06 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Whitestriped63 wrote:
13secmini wrote:
oh and i forgot the water pump pulley only has 10mm clearance of the rear subframe, the pic i put up of andys roundie does not have a subframe fitted, that how he got it to sit so far back!


Looks like it's back to Suzuki then. Faaaaark this is giving me the sh!ts!!


I'd bin the water pump then, fit an electric one. 8)


Just another issue Doc, I can't visualise the actual radiator fitting in anywhere!!!

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