yeah i dont see anyone designing a 3k cyl head for a smallblock
they do race 998's still in the uk but they're more of a stocko thing arent they?

Well the head apparently can be used on all bores, but thinking about it now, they are fairly large ports.

Before you commit to putting one on a smallbore, I would talk to Graham Russell, he developed the port shape design in the latest Elder heads, and can tell you if it'll work properly on a smallbore.
It's only worth doing these expensive things if you achieve high performance.
I'd hate to see you waste your money....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

hooray! another turbo mini nut,

i say go with the 1275, dont know what size turbo you would use for that but it would be too laggy for any of those jap import turbos,

but i think there is a car called an alta which has a very small turbo,

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any parts for a 76 clubby pm me or ring 0405 329 326

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44717

OK, well will any of my small bore boxes work with a 1275? And what should I being doing strengthening wise?

I was thinking along the lines of:
Twin Pin diff
S/C drop gears
Center main pickup.

Anything else?

I think a remote gearbox or a rod gearbox is just that (apart from ratios). So they can go any only block. I have a Mini K 4 synchro on my 'S' motor.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

everybody has a diff opinion on g/boxes, matt the mini man thinks helical cut gears are better then straight cuts (i've heard that in many places)
he has a standard g/box with his turbo 16v mini, and it hasnt presented any dramas.
sounds like an interesting build. i wouldve gone for a 8v bmw head (which is crossflow) or 16v, both are cheaper and probly the same results

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real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

Crack test your crank, use a small journal 1100S or MK1/Mk2 S crank if possible, reground properly with large radii on the journals, balanced and check for straightness. If you can find a S block then strap the centre main, use ARP studs, make sure you have adequate thrust bearing clearance, check your rods for straightness, use ARP rod bolts or similar.

Redistrip the block, clean all the oil galleries, make sure the oil feeds to the bearings align with the bearings, get a large capacity pump, use good oil.

It all helps towards a strong build...

Gearbox: a well rebuilt and prepared helical gearbox of the 4 synchro kind will be sufficient. If you can afford the crosspin diff, use it, otherwise use a heavy duty diff pin and don't spin the wheels. Mod the centre intake if you are going to use a minispares one. Use a heavy duty layshaft and change all the bearings in the gearbox. Put in new synchros.

Your synchros will go first I think, before anything else. Treat it with care and it should be fine for quite some time... Gearboxes don't break themselves, the problem lies between the steering wheel and seat.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

^^^^^

well said

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real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

Cooper S block does NOT need a centre main strap. Their caps are steel, not cast iron, and are already thicker than the common 1275 ones.
If you have lots of gold you can get S 4 bolt centre main caps from MiniMania in US.
Not cheap though....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

OK, so what sort of 1275 should I be looking out for, I can't really afford anything yet, but if something comes up cheap or I come across the right one, then I'll look into it.

1100S, Cooper S etc??

Whatever you can find cheap, they all work the same, once modded.
Morris 1100S,
Morris 1100S or 1300 auto (needs block mods, see my thread in how-to)
1275 Cooper S/Clubby GT,
1275LS
1275A+ (late Moke, Metro, Rover, etc).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

In IT we call that a PEBKAC.. "Problem Exists Between Keyboard And Chair"

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Yeah, I've heard people crowing on about how much stronger straight cut gears are than helical.. which I can't understand. With a straight cut gearset, you have basically only one tooth in contact with the next gear at a time, but with a helical arrangement there's at least two at all times.

Anyone got an authoritative answer?

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Turbodave on the turbominis forum in UK agrees with you, and he's a gear design engineer, working for Eaton in USA.

He says main benefit of straight cuts is ease of manufacture for short run production, but he's critical of their accuracy generally..


I guess as a positive there's less end thrust on the bearings, but I would expect their life in a daily driver to be less. I've seen a few sets wear through the hardening, something helicals seldom seem to do.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.