Car wont start today, no fuel pump ticking when ignition is on.

Tried tapping it and still no go.

So I'm buying a new one just wondering which one should I get?
I've read the solid state facet type is good

What type of fuel pump do I have?



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What's the easy way of replacing the fuel pump?
Should I install an inline fuel filter between the tank and pump?

No comment on the type of pump except I think it's a generic plastic type , someone else can vouch for it's proper type . The easiest way to replace it is get two pairs of vice grips and clamp the fuel lines either side of the pump (go a bit further towards the tank so you can fit a filter if you want) and then take the old pump off and fit the new one . A filters a pretty good idea but not necessarily essential as an SU hasn't got fine jets to block up as other carbs .

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I don't mean to make you suck eggs, but have you checked for 12 volts at the pump yet? Might be worth a look as there is the dodgy old fuse box and a conection plug near the windscreen wiper motor that may be playing up. Saying that, make sure the negative goes to ground as well.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Your pump is an SU AUF201 or similar.
It may just need some TLC, clean the points etc.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

will try and open it...I've got the black worskhop manual

I've got a Rover fuel tank with in-tank fuel pump wondering if I should just swap my tank with this so I can have more fuel capacity.

Can i have a rover tank without the fuel return or is this necessary for this tank? Can I just block it or something?

Hang on a moment.... In another thread you said that you replaced the starter and had to change the wiring to get the starter to work. Maybe you have left off a wire?

On the original solenoid where you moved a cable from one to the other post is there still a thin wire on the other post?

yes the trigger wire is still there white with red trace
car was cranking quite strong after I charged the battery
but few minutes ago I was testing the fuel pump voltage and its getting 12.5V
then tried starting it very nice strong cranks but not turning over.

disconnected the -ve wire from battery then put it again and there's no battery warning light on the dash and now its just clicking....
headlights working but no crank or ignition lights

I didnt touch anything

but still no fuel pump ticking

Fuel pump doesn't tick until the pressure in the line drops. The pump you have got is a generic SU type that is most likely solid state switched (i've got one it looks very similar) rather than points type.

Are you sure it's not an ign problem. One easy way to tell is to place a teaspoon of fuel into throat of the carby(or each if youve got 2), stand back then crank the engine. If it doesn't at least cough you have an ign issue.

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

I can see fuel in the fuel filter (full), didnt check the carby bowls though

Right now its pointing to the ignition switch maybe?
as right now I'm getting not ignition warning light on the dash just clicks unlike this afternoon it was happily cranking

might try my other ignition barrel tomorrow

Or at least buy a $2 multimeter from supercheap or a 5c 12v Test Light.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

I've got a multimeter but dont really know what to check

stick one side of multi to earth, stick other to + of coil and turn ign on, should be either + or- 12V approx - ok 1.

if not ok put same end of multi as coil test to fuse/s and check for voltage. even check the big power cable from battery. If any don't read a voltage then check fuses/cause.

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

Ensure ur meter is selected to Volts DC. Generally symbolised on multimeters as a solid line with 3 dotted lines underneath. Black probe to good earth point, red probe + side of coil when ign is turned to on.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

The solid state facet pumps are a good alternative if yours is busted

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K